The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
Copied from mojozone, by John Entwisle
Found 200 metres right of Punk Rock.
This crag illustrates the dangers of letting two under-employed local near-pensioners loose with a drill. Until this frenzied burst of choss removal and drilling the only noteworthy route on the crag was Ray's "Out with the Missus" although there were rumours of other developments. The archeological diggings did reveal hints of homo climberus activities but no clay tablets designating the routes were unearthed, so until proved otherwise, this will have to stand as the definitive document. All of the climbs are bolt protected and equipped with double bolt anchors. They are designed to be led as approach from the top is not to be recommended. Most of the climbs have had a second ascent to try to confirm the grades. The crag gets early sun and is sheltered from the NW and not too cold in a southerly.
Approach
Drive or bus to Sumner then take the first path to the Capt Thomas Track off Wakefield Ave. Where the track levels one gets a good view of the tree and slab. Cross the first fence at dug steps by a large pine and the next fence where it suits.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Bolts for Brits, 19 | 19 | ||||||
Up gulley and crack until it is possible to step left above a dirty ledge. |
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Drop the Block, 19 | 19 | ||||||
5 bolts. The crux was getting what now is the starting block off the climb |
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Whingeing in the Rain, 21 | 21 | ||||||
4 bolts. Up steep wall, somehow gain the slab, work left past aging piton and |
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I like It, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Far left near a dark gulley. 4 bolts. Start up veg crack until a hanging ledge can be gained. Stand up on |
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Visions of Grandeur (16), 16 | 16 | 4 | |||||
4 bolts. Up the slab. Clearly the first ascentionist needs glasses. Ray Button 09 |
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Kiwi Saver (15), 15 | 15 | 6 | |||||
6 bolts. Straight up the slabby pillar. Long walk to anchor. Said to be a
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Bit on the Side (18), 18 | 18 | 3 | |||||
3 bolts. Either do a long reach from the left or start direct(best to clip the bolt first). Soon eases off. John Entwisle 09 |
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Falling Rayn (17), 17 | 17 | 3 | |||||
3 bolts. Directly up where the 3 bolts lead. There are holds somewhere in the lichen. John Entwisle 09 |
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Courtesan, 17 | 17 | ||||||
5 bolts. Up the rounded arete, across ledge over bulge and onto upper slab. |
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Out with the Missus (16) | |||||||
7 bolts. Originally climbed on gear in Ray's mad youth. Climbs the left |
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Off with the Mistress, 17 | 17 | ||||||
7 bolts. Shares the first bolt with the Missus and the second if you like. |
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Rocking Horse, 15 | 15 | ||||||
4 bolts. Ray tried to dislodge the hanging flake but still best avoided. |
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Bandits at 3 O'clock, 18 | 18 | ||||||
On a black buttress near the fence. 3 bolts. Surprisingly awkward and a touch |
Data Entry by Grant Piper