Roadside Attraction Right

Type

Part of

What’s the attraction? An all-season crag with a wide range of grades and climbing styles. Ease of access makes it particularly popular with families and school groups. If needed, there is a toilet just up on the terrace to the left.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Approach

About 500m after the Motatapu bridge, the crag is by the road with the carpark on the right.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Adventures of Gonzo, 26	26	20m	5	0
Warm up on the bulges in the right-facing corner. You’ll need to be ready for the gnarly overlap and then powerful moves across the big roof. P1 26 20m 5 Trad
2	2Mr Cling, 23	23	20m	5	0
Start Adventures of Gonzo but exit left under roof to a single-bolt anchor. P1 23 20m 5 Trad
3	3I Need a Pie, 21	21	15m	5	2.01
You might very well think so after this. After the overhanging corner, climb right to a ramp and overlap. P1 21 15m 5
4	4Up Your Scud, 23	23	15m	6	2.01
Climb the left side of the prow on thin crimps before angling up and right. P1 23 15m 6
5	5Autumnal, 19	19	15m	2	2.01
From the Up Your Scud anchor, go left and through overlaps into a hair-raising slot and an exposed exit. Best combined with I Need A Pie as single pitch. Note: it’s a 25m abseil back to the ground. P1 19 15m 2 Trad
6	6Free Barry, 23	23	15m	6	3
Barry deserves it. From the Up Your Scud anchor, go right and through overlaps into the overhanging slot. Here, big holds ease the drama. Best combined with Up Your Scud as a single pitch. Note: 25m abseil to the ground. P1 23 15m 6
7	7Onion, 29	29	15m	4	2.01
The quintessential thin Wānaka face test piece. P1 29 15m 4
8	8Shortcut to Exposure, 17	17	30m	12	3
Begin in the chimney, then move right and up the wall. At least one NZMGA guide has been rescued from the crux by amused locals. Note that it’s a 30m abseil to the ground. P1 17 30m 12
9	9Natural, 15	15	15m		0
A thin, right-angling crack. P1 15 15m Trad
10	10Nasal Discharge, 24	24	20m	6	0
An overhanging arête feature. P1 24 20m 6
11	11Crumble, 28	28	20m	5	0
Start Nasal Discharge then climb the steep face through a demanding sequence of pockets to finish on Nasal Ecstasy. P1 28 20m 5
12	12Nasal Ecstasy, 20	20	20m	6	1.02
The mighty layback corner crack angles way out left. P1 20 20m 6
13	13Shortcut To Ecstasy, 14	14	10m	5	0
The easy slab beneath Nasal Ecstasy. P1 14 10m 5
14	14What’s My Mission Now?, 25	25	20m	2	2.01
The thoughtlessness of youth. (Who’ll bolt my next route for me?) Start Nasal Ecstasy then climb the overlap and face. P1 25 20m 2
15	15Roadside Rage, 14	14	15m	3	0
After the short corner, either hang a left to the start of Nasal Ecstasy or cruise up to the Everybody Needs A Thneed anchor. P1 14 15m 3
16	16Everybody Needs a Thneed, 15	15	15m		0
Yeah right. Corner crack. P1 15 15m Trad
17	17Neil Diamond Loves Me, 23	23	20m	6	2.01
Gain the Everybody Needs A Thneed anchors, get on the pedestal, and launch way, way out left on gorilla grips before climbing back right to the anchor. P1 23 20m 6
18	18Everything but the Formalities, 22	22	15m	6	3
Again from the Thneed belay, get on the pedestal and paddle up the shallow corner. Super. P1 22 15m 6
19	19Hopeless Romantic, 24	24	20m	6	1.02
Up and left onto the corner, bypassing a small cabbage tree en route. P1 24 20m 6
20	20Ring The Gack, 25	25	15m	6	1.02
Pull finger. A techno blinder on the steep face. P1 25 15m 6
21	21Soggy Biscuit, 17	17	10m	2	0
Down at ground level near the fence and road. The short wall with nice layaways. P1 17 10m 2
22	22Ski Bum’s Revenge, 22	22	10m	3	0
The powder was trashed. A steep face and arête. P1 22 10m 3 Trad
23	23Academia Nuts, 23	23	10m	3	0
A fierce but intellectual piece of work up a faint crack. P1 23 10m 3
24	24Be My Slave, 18	18	10m	2	0
Hopeful. The rightmost route, a short climb on a boulder. P1 18 10m 2

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

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Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

c6c6eacb-ceca-4763-93f6-b985714c92ca