A small crag on the east bank of the Motatapu River, upstream of the road. Faces south so good on a hot day.
From the Motatapu River bridge head up the DOC Motatapu River Track for 10 minutes. After the track descends wooden steps to the edge of the river, continue for 100m to cross a fence at the stile. The Wind in the Willows is above you, with a trail to its base 10m past the fence. The track arrives at the rightmost route.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Mutton Dressed As Lamb, 21 | 21 | 14 |
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Up the initial wall to the break, then step left onto face of the second tier.
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| 2 | 2Open project | 13 |
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Start as for Mutton … but continue straight up.
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| 3 | 3Indian Corner, 23 | 23 | 14 |
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Start as for Mutton … but head up the corner to the right-hand crack above.
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| 4 | 4Before The Storm, 19 | 19 | 8m | 3 |
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A short but engaging climb beside the shallow groove.
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| 5 | 5Idyll Hands, 20 | 20 | 9m | 3 |
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A latter day Arêtenaphobia except without the hyperbole. Obvious arête on the left edge of the wall that the track arrives at.
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| 6 | 6Small But Perfectly Formed, 25 | 25 | 10m | 3 |
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Climb the perfect pockets 4m right of Idyll Hands.
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| 7 | 7The Little General, 26 | 26 | 10m | 3 |
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Bouldery, steep climbing on good rock.
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