An east facing beautiful grey and orange visage, in an idyllic setting with great indoor-outdoor flow. This crag has been developed for people sport climbing grade 11 to 19. After a high first bolt the bolts tend to be very tightly spaced to offer some protection on the highly featured/ledged terrain. That being said, if you bring a rack, several of the routes go on gear. This cliff is within Stoddart Point Recreation Reserve and was developed by James Geddes and Asher March in consultaion with the Christchurch City Council. We acknowledge that there were at least two climbs here prior to this development and would be interested to know any history of the crag.
Note:
The first bolt of the climbs is high with the intention of people stick clipping. Some stick clip poles have been stashed in the ‘rock biv’ by “Wanderer” for those without, please leave these here for the benefit of other crag users.
Terrain:
Sheltered from the NW through to the Southerly. Dries fast and gets early morning sun. Shady from 1400 in summer months. Routes have been cleaned but still have some loose rocks, particularly around the middle “Wharton’s Warple” area. Climbs are around 7-12m high.
This crag was developed in consultation with Christchurch City Council; no further route development or vegetation removal is to take place without express permission. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport and climbing at this area will be done at your own risk.
From Diamond Harbour head along Purau Ave. Park 200m past Rawhiti St on the Lt or Rt in small lay-bys. Walk past the picnic table, down the walking track towards the ocean. Turn Lt to head north along the track until you deem that you are underneath the crag (5min walk). Scramble 20m up to the crag following the hand line.
If walking from the other direction ( the car parks opposite the Croquet Club ), it's between 10 and 15 mins ( past the Sign on the track then look for the access hand lines on your right ).
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| ND | NDNorth Doodle, 14 | 14 | 12m | 5 |
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At the south end of the cliff, go up the corner to ledge then tackle the gapping offwidth crack to the DBB. |
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| RA | RARarefied Atmosphere, 14 | 14 | 12m | 5 |
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Follow crack systems trending Lt to DBB. This can be climbed as a Trad route.
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| 153 | 153153 Feet, 15 | 15 | 153m | 153 |
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Bouldery start to a good stance, step Rt at mid height and feel the exposure, then head ever so slightly Lt to DBB.
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| C | CConstant, 17 | 17 | 12m | 5 |
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Climb the rad looking nose on positive holds to the DBB.
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| DM | DMDr. March, 14 | 14 | 13m | 6 |
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Climb the Rt facing corner to the Ngaio tree, where you are faced with a layaway crack then step right to DBB. This can be climbed as a Trad route.
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| SBS | SBSShort But Sturdy, 11 | 11 | 7m | 4 |
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Up the face on blocky ground to the DBB at the Ngaio tree.
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| GR | GRGastrointestinal Rumbles, 11 | 11 | 7m | 3 |
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Bridge up or climb the dirty bowels to the ledge and DBB on right (11). Alternatively continue up past 1 extra bolt to join Wanderer at its last bolt, finish as per Wanderer (13).
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| W | WWanderer, 13 | 13 | 12m | 5 |
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Up blocky terrain then head Rt to go around and onto large block, make unlikely and airy move Lt to the arrête, with a hard mantle to finish.
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| B | BBowman, 15 | 15 | 12m | 7 |
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Start just Rt of arête. Bouldery start to a good stance. head up the weakness to big ledge for a deep breath before making the final push. DBB
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| LL | LLLondon Lassitude, 19 | 19 | 12m | 4 |
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Use Bowman or head straight up to gain the first bolt, then up faint arête to DBB.
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| WW | WWWharton’s Warple, 16 | 16 | 12m | 5 |
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Climb the aesthetic Lt facing corner. The deeper you go the easier it is till you reach the small lip then bridge the arête to reach the top.
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| MC | MCMedicinal Champagne, 16 | 16 | 12m | 5 |
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Start as per Wharton’s Warple make an airy move Rt onto the ramp at the first bolt (stay low), follow up and Lt using good foot holds to ease the burn.
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| BBB | BBBBinders Butter Beans, 19 | 19 | 12m | 5 |
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Start as per Totter step Lt to reach the nose, crank through the overhang to DBB.
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| T | TTotter, 12 | 12 | 11m | 4 |
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Start in corner work up to the Lf facing face up to DBB.
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| Wi | WiWish, 15 | 15 | 10m | 3 |
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Start in the cave crank up to epic hand jam then climb up ramps and stem top finish.
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