Gypsy Heart is a new multipitch route in the Gertrude Valley on the Black Lake Wall (the Wall between first stream crossing and Black Lake, see photo).
Access: From Homer hut carpark, follow the Gertrude Saddle Track for about 40min. Before the first stream crossing turn left and you will spot a bolt with the pink cord at the base of the route. Scramble up to the base of the route.
Descent: recommended descent is to walk out to Black Lake (5 minutes). 10 metres above the last anchor there is an additional bolt with the pink cord. From here go by obvious contour line towards Gertrude Saddle/Black Lake. From Black Lake it takes about 20min to the base of the route via official track. It’s possible to abseil the route but it takes longer than walk out. If rappelling down, 2x60m ropes is a must. Abseil from anchor to anchor and watch out for the rope ends when abseiling the last two pitches.
Anchors: 2 bolts with 1 maillon or ring. Gear: 14 quickdraws. The lower part of the wall gets sun between 10am – 2pm, upper part (from Ledge of Love) till 4pm.
Gypsy heart:
Wind blowing to their faces,
When they look to the west,
Freedom spirit & passion to find new places,
In the mountains,
Where the love is at its best…
- P1
- 17
- 25m
- 6
A slabby pitch.
- P2
- 18
- 45m
- 9
A slabby pitch with a small featurous wall at the end.
- P3
- 21
- 40m
- 13
An endurance pitch (crux) with a surprise at the top.
- P4
- 12
- 50m
- 6
Easy slab/scrambling.
- P5
- 18
- 25m
- 7
Face climbing.
- P6
- 10
- 30m
- 4
A grassy pitch. Scramble diagonally left past 4 bolts to the Ledge of Love.
- P7
- 17
- 25m
- 3
From the Ledge of Love scramble up to a bolt with a pink cord and climb a small bulge.
- P8
- 17
- 40m
- 7
Scramble right to the bolt and straight up.
- P9
- 17
- 20m
- 4
A slab with easy boulder. 10m above the anchor there is an additional bolt with pink cord (recommend finishing here and chilling next to the beautiful wee tarn).
