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Lower Mangatoetoenui

Type
Sector
Part of
Tūkino Crags

Two minutes past Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is a big face with a waterfall that spits out from the upper Mangatoetoenui Gorge.

Walktime
15
Lat/lon
-39.273410000945,175.62245776969, NZ Topo Map
Approach

From the lodge walk down (East) along the bluffs towards Mount Ngauruhoe and find the big waterfall just past Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
WR WRWhale Rider, 19 19 80m 4
2.01

This route allows you to climb past two waterfalls to the upper plateau of the Mangatoetoenui George (Dragon Wall, Rehab wall etc). It's one of the most scenic adventure outings in Tukino. The gear is good but before you head out make sure you agree on some form of non verbal communication with your belayer: you can't hear or see each other past the first pitch.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • Trad

Start out far left and traverse along the lowest ledge above the overhang. Once you see the leaning corner above you, find several good small cam placements to protect the crux and head straight up over the bulge. You'll see a belay ledge with bolted anchors on your right.

  • P2
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 4

Traverse diagonally right along 4 bolts to an exhilarating finish just above the waterfall. Once over the lip, scramble to the top to a bolted anchor. It's possible to walk down from here using a gully out left towards Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress.

  • P3
  • 10
  • 40m
  • Trad

From the top of the second pitch rappel down into the top basin of the waterfall. Build a trad anchor across the river for your belayer, climb out and scramble along the spine to the upper plateau. Enjoy the views! Bonus points if you can keep your rope dry.. It's possible to walk back down from the upper plateau to the bowl of the lower waterfall by scrambling down a short rock step further up and right.
TW TWTaniwha, 21 21 65m 11
2.01

The overhanging prow on the right side of the waterfall. The first pitch is well bolted and offers excellent steep climbing on jugs. The second pitch is easy but fun with some exposure. You can walk off the top of the 2nd pitch to avoid the last pitch on trad.
It's possible to only do the first pitch by lowering at the first set of anchors and having the second remove the gear on top rope.
When climbing as a multi pitch climb right past the first set of anchors and stop at the big comfortable belay ledge.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 35m
  • 11

High clip the first bolt from the ground using the undercling, traverse pulling on jugs. Climb past the first anchors to the belay ledge. Longer draws can help with rope drag but generally it's not too bad.

  • P2
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 4

From the belay ledge traverse right across the gully. Make sure to put a redirect on the anchor so the belayer doesn't get pulled off and extend the first bolt to reduce drag. The anchor is in the top left corner of the sandy platform. It's possible to walk off from here.

  • P3
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

Clip the first bolt standing on the platform. Find good protection in the left gully with small cams in cracks. Make a trad anchor at the top or find the rap rings 10m further up right.

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UUID
 
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