This is information from Allan Hill that has been in storage for nearly 20 years. Please treat it as gospel, as there may have been a lot of gaps and changes!
There are good tree belays, and some fixed slings with krabs to avoid damage to trees. The cliff is bolt free.
Orientation
In the centre of the crag is a red lichenous wall. 7 metres L of this is the L-facing corner and roof of Juan Cornetto. To the R is the large corner of Katzenklappe.
Location
Just below the Crater Rim Walkway between Twisted Sister and Crag Y. It’s handy to abseil in from a stand of three cabbage trees, which are above Feat of Clay/Juan Cornetto . Alternatively there is a vague path to the east of Twisted Sister, leading to Swallow Dive.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Swallow Dive, 19 | 19 |  |
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At the far L of the crag is a short wall below a large OH. Climb to the OH lip, move R though weakness, step back L to finish. |
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| Blood And Bone, 18 | 18 | |
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6m to the R is a LW trending red ramp/corner. From the apex move L, then up to finish. |
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| Snakes And Ladders, 19 | 19 | |
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To the R is a cave. Start below the deep gully which bisects the wall above the cave. Gain the gully (crux), then climb the groove on the L wall. |
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| A Dose Of Groundup, 21 | 21 | |
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At the RH side of the cave . Follow the RW trending crack, finish up the jam crack with tenuous move L to finish (crux). Full range cams & wires). Fixed sling/krab for descent. |
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| Perpetual Struggle Against The Eunuchs, 21 | 21 | |
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The steep slab right of Groundup to the lip of the roof. Gear in top crack of Groundup. |
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| Juan Cornetto, 19 | 19 | |
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To the R is a corner capped by an OH. Up the corner, L under OH (crux). Poor protection to reach the roof. |
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| Feat Of Clay, 16 | 16 | |
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Climb the corner of Juan Cornetto for 5m, then move up and R 5m to the scungy chimney. Up this, and climb cracklines between red lichen and flax. |
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| Libration, 18 | 18 | |
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Start 3m to the R, just L of gully with trees. Climb the wall (crux) to join Feat Of Clay. Up the chimney, then up and L to the red rounded flake. Gain top of this, L to blocks. |
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| Hit Me With A Flower, 20 | 20 | |
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To the R is prominent patch of red lichen. Just R again is a wide crack above a tree. Climb the crack. |
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| Katzenklappe, 20 | 20 | |
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R again is a large corner and capping roof with slot on RH side. Climb the corner, move R around huge jammed block, then up the slot (crux) |
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| Brass Monkeys, 18 | 18 | |
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As for Katzenklappe, but finishing L under the roof (crux) |
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| Smoked Muscles, 21 | 21 | |
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6m R. Climb the RH side of the OH. Up through the bulge (crux), finish RW’s below final OH’s. FA 5/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid |
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| Tonton Macoutes, 23 | 23 | |
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Start to the right below large overhang split by flared crack. Climb to the alcove then move left 3 metres (cams in flake), then up to lip of overhang (cam #2.5). Gain crack (crux) to top. |
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| Fifty Lashes, 23 | 23 | |
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The big roof above the start of Tonton Macoutes. Good nuts/cams below the roof, and cam #1.5 at bottom of jamcrack. |
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| Life In The Freezer, 17 | 17 | |
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The weakness R of the large roof with V notch. Gain the alcove above the bulge, and through the roof (crux). |
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| All Aboard The Bloated Pigs, 22 | 22 | |
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2m to the R is a rounded prow. Climb this on its LH side (crux), past large pockets and through bulge with tussock. Finish up the groove. Alternatively climb up R of the prow (18), a grade more in keeping with the rest of the route. |
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| See No Evil, 17 | 17 | |
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2m to the R is a right-angled corner , just L of cave with trees. Up the corner, move L below tussock, easy arete to finish (or better, finish up the groove of All Aboard) |
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