Eldorado Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Altitude

Part of

Māpoutahi

The orange portion of wall located left of The Stronghold boulder.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iBKBSpnKZnJQDBRe-HDvuIjOGQy0Qtjs

Approach

Via Stronghold track or from road to beach.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Chronic Confusion, 22	22	50m	13	2.01
This central line has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the wall via a crackline through the upper bulging headwall and finishing at the Firewalker belay. Best as one pitch by skipping clipping the mid-anchor or bring a 120cm sling. P1 18 25m Up the steep lower wall on excellent rock and onto the ledge. Your second may want to come up also to join in on the action - assuming you intend to carry on above. P2 22 25m 13 Bury your hands deep in the hollows and swing left into the tips crackline that opens to hands up higher. Onto the big ledge and tackle the headwall direct.
2	2Fire Walker, 19	19	25m	13	2.01
Formally known as "Star Spangled Banner" P1 19 25m 13 Step across onto the lower wall and drift rightwards and up to a vertical step. Cool holds and moves land you at the base of a corner. Up this and out onto the left wall where a series of thin moves eventually lead to a ledge below the final headwall.
3	3Bush Stream Blues, 19	19	25m	8	0
P1 19 25m 8 Scramble up to the top of the grassy ledge immediately right from the start of Fire Walker (the top has been flattened off and a belay staple is in the wall behind). Head left into the groove and straight up the arête.
4	4EPIRB Virgin, 20	20	25m	8	0
P1 20 25m 8 Starts at the same staple belay at BSB. Delicate, bouldery, off-balance moves in the hanging groove above the belay (crux) and onto a ledge. Up the corner above then move out left onto the hanging slab.
5	5Jospe/Carr Route (full), 19	19	25m	10	1.02
P1 19 25m 10 The groove immediately above the spike on Golden Showers was originally climbed by Michelle Jospe who thought she was on Golden Showers. Steve Carr extended the route to the top of the crag shortly after. From the top of the groove step left onto the ledge then up the blunt arête into the rock scar and rock over onto the hanging slab.
6	6Jospe/Carr Route, 19	19	20m	8	1.02
P1 19 20m 8 At the top of the groove head over right to the GS belay.
7	7Golden Showers, 17	17	20m	9	2.01
P1 17 20m 9 Superior variant of Kaos. The " 'unprotected L slanting groove.....' - Dave Brash, Dunedin Rock, 2000" - has now been retrobolted. From the wedged spike at the top of the initial corner, launch out right across the void then up the striking golden corner. Power over the bulge on manageable jugginess. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture.
8	8Kaos, 19	19	20m	9	1.02
P1 19 20m 9 Climb the L slanting groove to the wedged spike. Cross the void and take a line rightwards at the base of the Golden Showers corner and around onto the face. Great climbing on excellent rock up to a high belay.
9	9The Croffiton Touch, 24	24	20m	8	1.02
P1 24 20m 8 Starts on the wall behind the Stronghold. Crimps and layaways lead into GS or K to finish.
10	10Control, 20	20	20m	8	1.02
P1 20 20m 8 Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt. Control was retrobolted in 2016). The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar.
17	17Twinkle Toes, 18	18	10m		0
P1 18 10m
19	19Polaroid Potential, 18	18	10m		0
P1 18 10m Trad
	Chronic Confusion, 22	22	0m		2.01
Duplicate route P1 22
20	20Star Spangled Spanner, 20	20	10m		0
An old version of Firewalker P1 20 10m A few nice moves.
12	12Fire Walker, 19	19	0m		2.01
Duplicate entry P1 19
21	21Sledge Hammer, 16	16	10m		0
P1 16 10m Trad Nasty, slippery rock to the first bolt. Not worth it.
13	13Bush Stream Blues, 19	19	0m		0
Duplicate route P1 19
14	14EPIRB Virgin, 20	20	0m		0
Duplicate entry P1 20
FW	FWFire Walker, 19	19	25m	13	2.01
Duplicate entry P1 19 25m 13 Starting up what was formerly 'Star Spangled Spanner' on the right hand edge of the Eldorado Wall, this route has been retro bolted on the lower section and now continues to the top of the cliff with the addition of several more bolts making it the longest route on the cliff.
GS	GSGolden Showers, 17	17	20m	8	2.01
Duplicate entry P1 17 20m 8 Superior variant of Kaos. The " 'unprotected L slanting groove.....' - Dave Brash, Dunedin Rock, 2000" - has now been retrobolted. From the wedged spike at the top of the initial corner, launch out right across the void then up the striking golden corner. Power over the bulge on manageable jugginess. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture.
18	18Chronic Confusion, 22	22	25m	12	0
Duplicate entry P1 22 25m 12 This central line on the Eldorado Wall has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the cliff via a crackline through the upper bulging wall and finishing at the Firewalker belay.
	Jospe/Carr Route, 19	19	0m	9	1.02
Duplicate entry P1 19 9 The groove immediately above the spike on Golden Showers was originally climbed by Michelle Jospe who thought she was on Golden Showers. Steve Carr extended the route to the top of the crag shortly after. From the top of the groove step left onto the ledge then up the blunt arête into the rock scar and rock over onto the hanging slab.
	Bush Stream Blues, 19	19	0m	8	0
Duplicate entry P1 19 8 Around grade 19: "Scramble up to high ledge immediately right from start of Fire Walker (staple in wall for belay). Head left into the groove and straight up the arête." -Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151628917090815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
K	KKaos, 19	19	18m	5	0
Duplicate entry P1 19 18m 5 Trad Climb the L slanting groove to the wedged spike. Take a line rightwards under Golden Showers corner and around onto the face. Great climbing on excellent rock up to a high belay.
C	CControl, 20	20	20m	7	0
Duplicate entry P1 20 20m 7 Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt. Control has been recently retrobolted. The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar.
	EPIRB Virgin, 20	20	0m		0
Duplicate entry P1 20 It starts left of Jospe/Carr route and right of BSB: "Delicate, bouldery, off-balance moves from ledge (crux) into corner and leftwards across hanging slab."-Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151650458650815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)

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UUID

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