The climbs immediately right of the Main Wall Central. A lake usually forms at the base of this wall in winter time. Occasionally you may strike it lucky if there hasn't been much rain for awhile.
For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iu8diXV_BTYFNBkcmRoFkQkSP468I9Hc
From the beach end car park, or from the track that turns off 100m prior to the beach car park, heading to the Main Wall Central.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Arokehe, 19 | 19 | 5 | ||||
Down the right hand end of the crag and immediately right of 'Eject-o-flap'. Up to the roof, a devious move right, then good holds to a long reach left before balancing across to the chains. |
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2 | 2Dirty Sanchez, 22 | 22 | 15m | 5 | |||
A sustained adventure on architecturally interesting rock. |
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3 | 3Biscuit Belly, 21 | 21 | 15m | 5 | |||
Head right then straight up the steep arete and over the bulge/overhang. |
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4 | 4Hanging on a Mystery, 21 | 21 | 15m | 7 | |||
Stay low under the hanging arete, then up the corner onto a ledge. Step across right and power up the steep wall. Equipped by Steve Carr and climbed by Rick during one of his annual pilgrimages. |
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5 | 5Electro-flage, 23 | 23 | 15m | 8 | |||
Up the flakey groove then out left onto the face. Steeply up the line on good holds to some strenuous moves over the bulge. |
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6 | 6Chocolate Fondue, 21 | 21 | 15m | 5 | |||
Just to the right to EF, sharing first bolt. Beware potential ground fall before clipping second bolt (very easy climbing though). Short technical brainteaser near the top. Drilled by Steve, gifted to Maud. |
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7 | 7DASH, 23 | 23 | 15m | 6 | |||
Up the jugs on the point then traverse left to a stance. Great crux sequence above on excellent stone. Generally requires a wide span to latch the right edge of the wall but has been climbed direct on crimpers. |
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8 | 8Chossy Little Pumpfest, 19 | 19 | 10m | 4 | |||
Recommended for the upper moves, fun overhanging face. |
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9 | 9Big Bad Trad, 7 | 7 | 10m | 1 | |||
A bolt protects the start of the diagonal corner. A good first trad lead. |
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10 | 10Big Bad Trad Direct, 14 | 14 | 10m | 1 | |||
Again, a bolt protects the initial moves up to adequate pro, direct to the anchor. |