A huge square-cut boulder with a good range of problems.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1L’etrave, V2 | V2 | |||||
Sit start then climb the classic arete. The top is easy but very high. |
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2 | 2Unnamed, VM | VM | |||||
Take the easiest line up the wall just right of the arete. Trend left at the top. Very high. |
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3 | 3Fool’s Gold, V1 | V1 | |||||
Climb on to the small ledge and then up the golden streak. One of the highest highballs at Turakirae. |
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4 | 4Leo Leo, V2 | V2 | |||||
Start on small crimps on the wall left of the low arete. Pull up into undercuts and slap for the shelf. |
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5 | 5White Slabs, VE | VE | |||||
There are various ways up this wide, low-angled slab. A common descent route. |
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6 | 6Unnamed, V1 | V1 | |||||
Climb the white wall on some interesting sharp pockets, veering right towards the top. Avoid using the good holds on the right. |
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7 | 7Unnamed, VM | VM | |||||
Either climb the wall or traverse from the left, finishing up the scalloped flake. |
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8 | 8Unnamed, VM | VM | |||||
Climb the wall and bulge. |
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9 | 9Unnamed, VE | VE | |||||
Climb the groove. |
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10 | 10Unnamed, V2 | V2 | |||||
Climb the wall at the left end of the overhang. |
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11 | 11Lockdown, V4 | V4 | |||||
Sit start in the middle of the small overhang. At the break, head left and match on the diagonal edge. Lock down for the crimper then deadpoint for the flat white jug. |
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12 | 12Lockdown eliminate, V7 | V7 | |||||
Avoid the good edge out left and use small chips on the blunt arete instead. |
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13 | 13Beaster, V7 | V7 | |||||
Sit start in the middle of the overhang. Pull nto the break, sidepull/undercut the huge 'love handle' and crank for a bad sloper. Match, then finish directly up the wall above. |
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14 | 14John Peel, V7 | V7 | |||||
A variation on Beaster: head right at the break and up left of Karl Malone. |
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15 | 15Karl Malone, V4 | V4 | |||||
Sit start, gain the narrow 'letterbox' hold then surmount the bulge using slopers and a difficult highstep. |
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16 | 16Unnamed, V1 | V1 | |||||
Shares the start of Karl Malone, but climb through the overhang just to the right, on better holds. |
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17 | 17Wavelength Traverse, V3 | V3 | |||||
Sit start on a large hold and traverse left on the (wave-like) band of slopers, keeping below the large break. Finish up the easy groove at the far end. |
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18 | 18Unnamed, VE | VE | |||||
Climb the juggy corner, trending left at the top. |
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19 | 19Unnamed, VE | VE | |||||
A good climb, direct up the face. |
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20 | 20Jardines Simulator, V1 | V1 | |||||
Slap up the right side of the schist-like arete and mantle the shelf. |
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21 | 21Unnamed, V1 | V1 | |||||
Move up slopers and small edges, finishing on the shelf. |
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22 | 22Praying Mantis, V4 | V4 | |||||
The black wall. |
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23 | 23Steak & Cheese Pie, V4 | V4 | |||||
Climb just left of the lichen streak on small, rotten crimps. |
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24 | 24Highball Gardening, V2 | V2 | |||||
Climb up to the corner (watch for loose holds), which is climbed on its right side. |
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25 | 25Unnamed, V2 | V2 | |||||
Climb the wall between the corner and the arete. |