A cluster of mostly easier short crack corners with excellent pro, often split by ledges but all worth doing as an introduction to the Leap, and warm ups for the for the harder RHS climbs. The LH routes also dispense with the annoying band of choss at the start.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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0 | 0Access Route, 16 | 16 | 18m | ||||
Climb the Lh facing corner of the easy looking gully, then diagonally R up ramps and short corners to JtI & CTA belays. |
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1 | 1Cardboard Chaos, 23 | 23 | 18m | ||||
Thin crack takes small wires & cams to #0.5. |
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2 | 2Just the Tick-it, 22 | 22 | 18m | ||||
Desperately layback while placing wires & CDs to 0.5 You've been warned! |
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3 | 3Canada Dreaming, 25 | 25 | 25m | ||||
The Steep crack just just L of CTA is independent for about 7m, but packs in a huge punch. Both muscular & subtle, on adequate pro. |
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4 | 4Crying Time Again, 18 | 18 | 25m | ||||
A good first climb at the Leap with bomber pro and sensational climbing up the twin cracks between the pillars. Start by scrambling up the blocky ledges past the chain link belay bolt down and right of Just the Tick-et. Some tricky bridging to get off the ledge, then superb jams and bridging lead up to an exciting move leftwards at the top into the left crack. Continue easily up the short corner on the left to the same belay bolts as Triple Treat. |
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5 | 5Triple Treat, 19 | 19 | 30m | ||||
One of Al's more sane on-sight pioneering efforts here. Feels like 3 short routes one after the other. From the rock prow belay below Side Effect, clip the bolt and climb easily up to the ledge at 5m, then 3 linked corners moving L at each ledge to finish at the belay chain above Crying Time Again. Another good introduction to the area with good protection and lots of bridging. |
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6 | 6Side Effect, 22 | 22 | 25m | 5 | |||
Great consumer climb, the routes name gives some beta. Start up the 1st of Triple Treat's 3 corners, then move right to all bolt pro for the business end of the climb. Up the deceptively steep corner above, before finessing through the small roof and finishing directly up the exposed arete above. You'll find out why you were melting off those jugs when you rap back down. Triple bolt belay. |
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7 | 7Don't Cry For Me Argentina, 20 | 20 | 25m | ||||
A great crux up high. Start as for TT & SE, moving R past bolt & follow likely cracks (twin ropes useful) to finish up R facing corner to SE's DBB. For a mega 50m pitch carry on up The Cure if you dare. |
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8 | 8Slapstick, 21 | 21 | 20m | 2 | |||
2 bolts protect access R to steep crack splitting buttress R of DCFMA. The continuation is a RH facing corner which links The Cure. Climbed by JC at grade 25 in 2006 |
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9 | 9Al's Jam Crack, 19 | 19 | 24m | ||||
Perfect hand jamming, would get more stars if longer. once on the ledge there are further options. |
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10 | 10Left Side Spike, 20 | 20 | |||||
Bridging up the L facing corner crack cumulates in a tricky crux move to the tantilising jug. Take CDs up to #1.5. Finish at DBB just above and to the R of the spike. |
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11 | 11The Cure, 20 | 20 | 20m | 4 | |||
This mind excursion is climbed as a 2nd pitch to TA, but can be accessed by any route between Se & TA. Cruxy bolt protected climbing on breccia knobs above a rubble ledge (don't fall off clipping) before bridging up the easier groove ( natural pro, not the best rock) and stepping out to atmospheric DBB under roof. |
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12 | 12The Affliction, 18 | 18 | 20m | ||||
The R side of the spike. Interesting climbing. |
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13 | 13Walk of Shame, 19 | 19 | 11m | ||||
Short but nice L facing corner |
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14 | 14Stereo Cameo, 19 | 19 | 12m | ||||
From the fixed rope ledge, move up & R onto ledge. Great little test-piece crux follows cruisy bridging up twin facing corner cracks above |
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15 | 15Brave Dash, 20 | 20 | 12m | ||||
From DBB around the corner from SC, tricky to climb & place pro for a few metres, then respite before the easier but run-out chimney. Finish as for SC |
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Man of Leisure, 28 | 28 | 6 | |||||
Powerful and tenuous climbing up to and through a bulge (all on bolts). There is a lower off ring above the bulge if you are only interested in sport climbing - however the original route continues up a well protected finger crack at grade 25. Take a selection of wires and small to med cams. |
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16 | 16Maximum Pseudo Likelihood, 28 | 28 | 20m | 10 | |||
The late Bill Bradshaw's classic addition to the Dunedin climbing scene. Spectacular! Bullet hard orangey rock, ultra technical, quite powerful & sustained climbing with only a few places to sneak a quick shake. |