The Arches

bouldery start through overhang off the sand and up steep wall

The brittle start to the high 1st bolt will put most punters off.

Thrilling climbing once you are in the steep ground – has what it takes to become a classic. Up overlaps to a corner above the Delta Slab, then memorably L to a jug. The last move to the DBB under the roof is the crux.

The sustained crux sequence high on the headwall is only unlocked when the secret hold is discovered – superlative and worth enduring the inferior climbing to get to it.

Some hard crimpy moves through the first bulge. Rinse and repeat to the belay ledge.

R facing black corner cave 3m left of original start. Up and left to ledge then step right and up to second ledge. Up slab to ring belay just below the roof.

Up wall to left racing corner below the large roof, step right to the belay on small slab

Up the blocky corner to finish high up and left of the pine tree

start up the black textured left facing slab, up crimpy steep wall to the belay behind the pine tree

the narrow groove on the left side of the rib then up right wall onto slab

bridge into the groove then delicately up the left arete

outside face of rib to the left of the big pine tree, up steepening line to gain the slab.

The right facing corner just left of the big pine tree. Up blocky corner to step onto the slab, move right then up the upper wall.

up Shifting Sands to the midway slab then out left up the slab and curve right under the overhang to SS belay

Off the ledge behind the big pine tree - scramble up sandy bank. Left hand end of the ledge, Then up wall with some difficult moves through overlaps.

from the middle of the ledge behind the big pine, up overlaps to a tricky move in the groove

up the sandy slope behind the big pine tree to a smaller pine, short left facing corner to slab. Left across the slab to steeper finish

scramble to grassy ledge from the beach or behind the big pine, blocky arete then right to the belay

left facing corner with thin move onto the slab

Walk 20m right from Black Slab past a pine tree (the only one close to beach level). Starting with an unsalubrious scramble up the gap between the gorse bushes. Really enjoyable, on surprisingly good rock. Carefully up and R on easy vegetated ground for 8m to the lower R edge of the hanging buttress. Great, steep climbing on jugs and side-pulls through overlaps to a slab, following 6 bolts. Take some CD’s to #3 or #3.5 to protect the final crack to the ringbolts. A single doubled rope will reach easy downclimbing to get off .

Right side of lower pillar (shared start with Beached Whale)

right side of low pillar, uo left facing corner to ledge on right, step left and through steep country to upper groove and onto the slab.

shallow groove to start and up to half height ledge. Maybe a second pitch one day?

off sandy platform, step right up low slab then left around bulge. Up black wall and finish right to belay

shared start with Little blue, up and right on right slanting slab then bridge groove and up broken pillar to slab. continue up to hanging corner and a delicate step right above the large roof

At the left end of the ngaio trees is a short track up to the base of Kingmaker. Half way up the track follow a V groove to the triangular roof and break out left and up to belay on the right of the pine tree.

Start from a grassy ledge above cluster of ngaio trees, moving out left of the main corner with a tricky move back right around a roof to gain the clean upper slab.

Start 15m above the beach above cluster of Ngaio trees. Move right on jugs then up and back left to the upper slab which is shared with Kingmaker.

Scamble onto boulders leaning against the wall, slab then some delicate bridging.

Just past low angle rib and rocky island, overhanging left facing corner. Bridge steeply to ledge then up groove and wall above

shallow R facing corner just before the rib and rocky island, up steep start to the slab and right to rib

steep start off the sand move left to slab and up rib to Scratchie belay

juggy start off the beach then up groove and through small overhang

start at the sharply cut groove at beach level, up initial slab and rib above.

up shallow groove move left at 3rd layback and reach right to a good jug, stay on left of bolts. there is a right hand variation at 18

start in shallow corner, up pebbles and slab to belay just left of the pine tree

bridge up the left side of two blocks then up the pillar to belay ledge

up narrow rib to white slab moving up and right over flakes to belay