Pinnacle - Upper Sunnyside

Type

Altitude

Part of

The small speckled hanging face further L is bordered by the upper Go crack on the R and the Yes corner on the L. The ledge from which you psych up for the Yes crux does not yet exist

Walktime

10min

Aspect

North

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
2	2Ruminate, 18	18	7m		0
P1 18 7m Trad Corner, L to join Crapulence. Protection is illusory.
3	3Testing Seams, 13	13	7m		0
P1 13 7m Trad Traverse from Yes to Crapulence along the obvious break.
4	4Oui, 20	20	18m	2	1.02
P1 20 18m 2 Trad Classic variant to Yes. Start up Yes and follow the seam (2 bolts for pro) to a strenuous mantle. Finish up the Yes groove.
5	5Yes, 18	18	18m	1	2.01
P1 18 18m 1 Trad A Sunnyside classic, if a little bit scary. Climb up L of the nose. Grovel onto it, then face moves off the ledge and out L (crux) and into the V corner, exiting L under the summit overhang. You’re looking at a potentially nasty fall on the crux moves, otherwise adequate pro.
6	6Go, 16	16	18m		0
P1 16 18m Trad Up the corner crack immediately R of Yes, sharing the same start. Finish up the wide crack immediately L of Overkill gully.
7	7Dying to get Down, 18	18	5m	1	0
P1 18 5m 1 Trad The speckled face has an old bolt in the centre.
8	8Hominoid, 14	14	15m		0
P1 14 15m Trad A couple of variant starts (direct is a boulder problem 16) to the R facing corner. Worth a star when you finish on the upper Go crack (same grade).
9	9Myopia, 14	14	7m		0
P1 14 7m Trad Good little problem through the roof between Hominoid and Overkill.
10	10Overkill, 12	12	15m		0
P1 12 15m Trad A tricky start traversing on the polished slab from the R, then crank into the big corner. Good pro once you are in the gully. Watch out for a pendulum at the start if you’re toproping this – a good spotter will do the trick.
11	11Sticky Fingers, 18	18	10m	3	1.02
P1 18 10m 3 Scramble up to the Overkill gully and clip the bolt out right. Thought provoking moves up to a good incut hold that may be beyond the reach of short people (pull on the quickdraw if necessary). Hand traverse right onto the slab and follow the bolt line to a ring belay high and right.
12	12Dicky Fingers, 22	22	12m	1	0
P1 22 12m 1 Trad First bolt placed on the Sunnyside protects the sharp, crimpy direct start to Sticky Fingers. .
ShF	ShFShredded Fingers, 17	17		3	1.02
Make an unlikely move off the boulder onto the slab then straight up to a ring belay. P1 17 3
13	13Astroboy, V4	V4	4m		0
P1 Hueco V4 4m Long Beach has its first V boulder grade! An interesting and worthwhile boulder problem on the large boulder below Dicky Fingers. Climb the LH side of the slightly overhanging face on good crimpers to an interesting top out.
14	14End Rib, 16	16	8m		0
P1 16 8m Trad Step off the balcony to the protectionless arete – was about grade 12 before some rocks were ‘persuaded’ off the first couple of moves many years ago.
	Scarab, 14	14	9m		0
P1 14 9m Trad The face round the corner, finishing on End Rib.

Comments

UUID

695494fa-ed43-4481-a479-948117aa04d5