Northern Bluffs

Type

Altitude

1700m

Part of

These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered

Walktime

20 min

Aspect

South East

Approach

Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	West of South Buttress, M3	M3	40m	0
P1 Mixed M3 40m Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place
	Point Eight, M4	M4	80m	0
P1 Mixed M4 45m Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay P2 Mixed M2 35m Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest.
	Point Nine, M2	M2	60m	1.02
P1 Mixed M2 30m Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground P2 Mixed M2 30m Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields.
	Gully One, WI1	WI1	20m	0
P1 Water Ice WI1 20m left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short
	Gully Two, WI2	WI2	20m	0
P1 Water Ice WI2 20m Another line just to the right.
	Gully Three, WI2	WI2	20m	0
P1 Water Ice WI2 20m Climb the right end of the wall, before the cliff line lengthens again.
	Irish Ice Express, WI2	WI2		0
P1 Water Ice WI2 Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above.
	Bowel Wobbler, WI4	WI4	50m	1.02
P1 Water Ice WI4 50m More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground.
	Unclimbed Ice Project, WI6	WI6	50m	0
P1 Water Ice WI6 50m This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess

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