Whakapapaiti Cirque

Type

Altitude

1900m

Part of

This rarely-visited and little-known ice climbing location (part of which was formerly known as the Barium Enema Face) has some premier routes when well-formed. Although slightly farther to walk, it is still relatively low on the mountain. The main face was discovered by Peter K Dickson in 1987, and developed by Dickson, Alex Palman and the late Dave Gurr the following year. More routes were added in 2007 on the left side of the cirque by James Russell and Joseph Nelson: http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=260707_bariumenema.php&direct=nz

Walktime

45 min

Aspect

West

Lat/lon

-39.25511973,175.54890633, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BJ34 192 512

Approach

The cirque is reached after about three-quarters of an hour’s walk west from the bottom of the Far West T-bar on the Whakapapa Skiﬁeld, at around 1900m. Grid ref 293129. Ice forms on shady southwest-facing aspects beneath broad, sunny snowﬁelds. The bluffs can’t be seen from above – approach by sidling from below. The first routes are in a sunnier location on the left of the cirque; for the others continue on into a small lava canyon where a distinctive cave with a high, arching roof is prominent on the left side. It is possible, but by no means necessary, to camp in this cave.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
1	1Qualifier, WI2	WI2	20m	0
P1 Water Ice WI2 20m On the left side of the cirque, this is not really a technical climb, but a good warm-up. Follow the left slope up to an obvious chute. It is possible to finish directly over the top, but the left chute provides a challenge of solid ice, which can be well protected.
2	2Qualified, WI2	WI2	12m	0
P1 Water Ice WI2 12m Climb the obvious central line on the face on the left side of the cirque. The crux is the vertical lower third.
3	3Ascending Colon, WI3	WI3	25m	1.02
P1 Water Ice WI3 25m The large, steep flow to the right of the cave.
4	4Rectum Direct, WI4	WI4	25m	1.02
P1 Water Ice WI4 25m Sustained vertical climbing with a short freestanding section at mid-height. Alex Palman took a six-metre fall on the first ascent.
	Pig Face, WI3	WI3	15m	0
P1 Water Ice WI3 15m This route is on a separate flow further right.

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Comments

UUID

373b5f3f-0c96-4eff-92a8-21c21d825d2c