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First Pinnacle

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2234m
Part of
Nga Tohu Pinnacle Ridge

The highest of the three main pinnacles. First Pinnacle also has several opportunities on its northern and eastern sides, but you’ll almost always need to get up early to avoid hot, soft conditions on the northern aspects.

Lat/lon
-39.25186302,175.57100773, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BJ34 219 521
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Zig-Zag Gully, I,1 I,1 160m
0

Only really much of a zig-zag in summer. Leave Gully 2 where it turns towards
the col, and follow the broad, shallow gully to a notch in the ridge between
First Pinnacle and the gendarme at the top of its West Ridge.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
  • 160m
2 2West Face, I,2 I,2 0m
0

Climb out of Zig-Zag Gully and direct to the top.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
3 3West Ridge, I,1 I,1 130m
0

Gain the col beyond Pink Floyd Buttress from either side, and continue up the
ridge to the summit. Alternatively (but significantly harder), start with
Wish You Were Here on the toe of Pink Floyd Buttress.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
  • 130m
4 4South East Face, I,1 I,1 250m
0

In the right conditions this looks to be a nice, straightforward climb.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
  • 250m
5 5North East Ridge, I,2 I,2 350m
0

A good line that unfortunately tends to soften very quickly once the sun hits
it.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • 350m
6 6North Face, I,2 I,2 350m
0

A gully runs direct to the summit. Again, watch for soft conditions.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • 350m

Images

Comments
UUID
 
63bd253d-4189-4672-b1af-5b31256452c4