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Great White Slabs

Type

These slabs, behind Gill’s Bivvy in the Adelaide Cirque, cemented the Darrans’ reputation for quality friction climbing.
A beautiful sweep of rock located directly up and right of Gills Bivvy. Once popular for its smooth sustained slab climbing the area has been neglected over the past decade with the slow deterioration of the bolts. There is a danger of being hit early season by rock and ice from the shelf above, particularly on the left-hand side.

Image
Aspect
North
Lat/lon
-44.73703992,168.03043842, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CB09 065 342
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
6 6Zinzinbar, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20

On the smooth left side of the slabs, follow a slightly dry streak kept clean by frequent avalanches. A hint for falling off this route - turn and run! Strictly a late summer climb. “Just follow the line of mangled unusable bolts” Dave Vass


7 7Flutterby, 19 19 2
2.01

Four pitches of sustained and bold slab climbing. Flutterby and Braustin Ooks share the same first pitch.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Start roughly in the middle of the slabs and climb unprotectable ground to a natural pro belay in a small right-facing corner.


  • P2
  • 18
  • 2
  • Trad

  • P3
  • 19
  • 2
  • Trad

  • P4
  • 19
  • Trad

8 8Braustin Ooks, 19 19 0m
2.01

  • P1
  • 19

Four pitches. Initial climbing tends up and right before curving back left past some well spaced 40+ year old bolts.


9 9Rockaway Beach, 19 19
2.01

  • P1
  • 19

Four pitches. The last pitch takes an unlikely traverse below an overlap followed by a mantelshelf through the overlap.


 Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained, 16 16 0m
0

A moderate slab route, protected with 10mm stainless steel bolts. Follows the
driest area of the slabs


  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

scramble up to a wide ledge then follow a seam up the slab with a few cam placements til the start of the bolts.


  • P2
  • 16

  • P3
  • 16

  • P4
  • 16

a couple of moves through the bulge to reach the belay


10 10Rabbit Test
1.02
11 11Rear Entry Burns
0

  • P1

“Named after meeting him, he’d fallen on lead while putting in a bolt in the slabs and had skinned his butt” Phil de Joux.


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UUID
 
5887e696-adf5-4d67-b66c-f0c9c719f43e