The lower tier of cliffs along the south side of the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. This good-looking crag is in a spectacular location close to the river, where a rounded shelf rises out of a narrow gorge and then up to form a steep wall.
Once in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge head down the true right of the stream.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1White Gentian, 17 | 17 | 25m |  |
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Just left of ' Blue Eyes White Dragon'. Climb the central crack system up the wall. Start just left of the thin crack at the bottom to keep the grade at about 16-17. Direct start will probably be 19-20. (Place some wires in the crack first) Gear - double set of cams, hexes, wires, some microcams. Belay just below the top where 2 x #4 cams fit big cracks (otherwise climb back to the upper tier for anchors) |
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| 2 | 2Blue Eyes White Dragon, 16 | 16 | 20m | |
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A nice line just to the right of the obvious central weakness in the crag. Head straight up over a series of small bulges, with the largest right at the top. Well protected. |
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| 3 | 3Tooth Decay, 16 | 16 | 25m | 7 |
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Line of bolts several metres right of 'Blue Eyes White Dragon' Double Bolt anchors at top. |
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| 4 | 4Deception, 19 | 19 | 25m | 6 |
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Meander up the bolts near the right end of the White Dragon Wall. Cruxes at half height and at the top. Double bolt anchor at top. |
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