Impressive, 60m high, 500m long wall with a bunch of adventure trad lines and a few sport climbs at the left hand end.
Climb up from the end of the Point via Mexican Americans (grade 16 pitch) or Flippin' the Grader to reach the left hand end, or walk up the Upper Bluff truck and for 10 minutes along the Odyssey track, then abseil in off bolted anchors (multiple abseils at New Wave, one 60m at Odyssey).
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Disengage the Simulator, 20 | 20 | 35m |  |
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A direct start to The Odyssey. Start up an easy looking chimney on the left of the corner. Climb directly up and then follow a right-trending diagonal ramp/crack until under an overhang. Move directly left onto a mini ledge that has a massive thread for pro (take an extra long sling). Continue left past the thread to a mantle. Finish up the third pitch of The Odyssey. |
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| 2 | 2Orion, 20 | 20 | 35m | |
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Another worthy alternative start to The Odyssey. Climb the right-slanting chimney in the centre of the corner. Keep climbing diagonally up and right on the same angle as the moves get progressively harder until you reach the ledge. Nice sustained climbing. Finish as for The Odyssey – or Space Odyssey. |
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| 3 | 3The Odyssey, 22 | 22 | 80m | |
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From the abseil in walk right to an 8m abseil off a rock spike to the base of the climb. From here climb up towards the left corner of the roof 20m up, then head left into a crack, follow this up to the cave, build a belay. (Double) cams to Camalot 4, nuts, lots of extendable draws.
Follow the bottomless chimney up and out of the cave, then tiptoe left across the very airy slabby ledge, step down at the little tree, then tiptoe some more (5m) further left to build a belay in cracks that cut through the overhang above.
Pull hard through the overhang (protection is bomber), then head straight up for the top out. |
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| 4 | 4Space Odyssey, 25 | 25 | 70m | |
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Climb out the bottomless chimney to the ledge, but part way along head straight up where a crack splits the roof, via some crazy moves. A fantastic ground-up effort by Dan Head.
Climb up and right through cracks and corners to the top. Protection is a bit thin. |
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| 5 | 5Drunken Monkey, 22 | 22 | 70m | |
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Staggers through some stupendous terrain, let’s just hope you remember it afterwards.
Starts 5m right of The Odyssey. Climb up and right, traversing under the cave and past a bulge, then work your way up to the sunny ledge to a trad belay.
Start 5m back from the right end of the ledge, climb an undercut feature on the left-hand edge of a small cave and then straight up to the right end of a big cave. Traverse left through the cave then head more or less straight up to the top (a double shoulder length sling is useful for a thread at the end of the cave). |
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| 6 | 6OPC Clones Go Crushing, 16 | 16 | 20m | |
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Enjoyable climbing on big holds up the corner and through the roof. Trad belay on the ledge above. Climb the pitch 2 of Drunken Monkey (grade 22) to finish. |
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| Shoulder Charge, 23 | 23 | 40m | |
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Shoulder Charge ★★ 40m, 5.11c 2313
Start as for OPC Clones or Of Moss And Men. Climb the steep wall between Drunken Monkey and Of Moss And Men. Climb the face with gear in horizontal breaks up to the right-facing corner to large ledge. Place high gear then step right up the face and groove above. Tend right up lower-angle ground before you get to the first of the small roofs. Pull through the left hand end of the roof (gear can be arranged high up on the lip). Move left and finish up the overhanging crack to the anchor for Of Moss And Men. |
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| Of Moss and Men, 23 | 23 | 55m | |
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Start as for Bangin’ 7 Gram Rocks. When through the roof continue straight up and belay in a groove. The left hand finish through the roof is grade 20.
A fantastic trad pitch and a must do. Climb the groove then the steep headwall through two small overhangs on good jams with the odd face hold. Move right and climb the crack system above, then right again near the top and back left to a ledge and bolted anchor. |
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| 7 | 7Bangin’ 7 Gram Rocks Because That’s How I Roll, 18 | 18 | 60m | |
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Up the overhanging corner on great holds and good gear. At the roof, escape right then continue to a chimney on the right. Trad belay.
Up the chimney and offwidth, then traverse right, running it out until the next offwidth (under the cave on Wish You Were Here). Climb up this and into the cave above, taking care to protect your entrance into the cave. Trad belay in the cave.
As for the second pitch of Wish You Were Here. Exit cave right and embrace the exposure. Continue up the slab above (crux) and then on and up to mantle onto the block at the top on the right. Belay off trees above, sit back on the block and enjoy the view. |
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| 8 | 8Wish You Were Here, 18 | 18 | 55m | |
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Arapilesian climbing up the overhanging wall on big holds. An extra set of cams is very useful.
Climb the corner taking a direct line. At the steep offwidth crack above a ledge (30m), escape right and then swing back left off a large, bulbous protrusion. Continue up to the cave, taking care to protect this section to avoid a ledge fall (crux). Belay in cave, very small cams helpful.
Exit cave right and embrace the exposure. Continue up the slab above (crux) and then on and up to mantle onto the block at the top on the right. Belay off trees above, sit back on the block and enjoy the view. |
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| Ziggy Stardust, 15 | 15 | 20m | |
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Climb slanting ledges diagonally leftward on average gear. |
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| Beached As Bro, 18 | 18 | 40m | |
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Sling funky chicken heads leading up to the crux. Turn right and climb the slab of the arête. Traverse right under a large loose block, then around the corner to another arête. Climb this to a tree belay. |
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