Leech Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

150m

Part of

The biggest wall. Climbs are logged in from left to right, starting at Drop Zone, which is in the black cave on the left end. The track meets the crag at the right end of the wall.

Walktime

30 Minutes

Aspect

East

Approach

Walk the left hand side track up the valley. Walk up the Eastenders track, there is a turn off, about 10mins from the substation. Take the track that sidles rightwards (south) into the head of the valley, go under the base of the Sunnyside Crag, a track goes under bush into the creek bed and emerges just left of Sayonara. Leech Wall is the tall wall at the left hand end that turns into a large overhang at left end where it meets the waterfall.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Pro	Quality
DZ	DZDrop Zone, 23	23	7	0
P1 23 7 A massively steep route on the back wall of the cave. Start from the scoop / ledge on the left, swing across the roof trending right past 3BR, go back L to the lip.
	Earned, 28	28	10	0
P1 28 10 An overhung prow. Start left of the first bolt, traverse right of the second bolt.
	Roger Parker, 25	25	4	0
P1 25 4 A steep route that finishes below the top of the cave.
	Monster Raving Routebag Party, 24	24	8	0
P1 24 8 A well overhung sport route.
CC	CCCorner Crimes, 23	23	8	0
P1 23 8 Start in the centre of the black wall. Steep dusty climbing on rounded holds leads to a ledge. Move L to the corner & climb over two roofs. Swing out on the steep right wall and move up to the hanging anchor chains.
	High And Dry, 24	24	7	0
A striking line up a groove using the same start as Corner Crimes. 2BR to a ledge then up the black wall past 5BR to share an anchor with CC. Rather loose holds. P1 24 7
	Bulge-let, 25	25	7	0
P1 25 7 Climb the steep wall at a short steep hanging crack past three bolts with links, from the ledge at 7.0 mts. continue up the left side of the groove/chimney to a lower off.
PH	PHPetrol Head, 22	22	5	0
P1 22 5 Trad Mixed Pro -On the right side of the awesomely steep blocky arête start at the right side of the black wall
	Intifada, 28	28	6	0
P1 28 6 An overhung wall and roof.
	Much Ado About Nothing, 21	21	6	0
P1 21 Trad The crack line right of the alcove 10 mts left of Sayonara. Move up onto the tongue, then grunt up the crack to a rest on the arête. Finish awkwardly up the wall and make an anchor, dirty.
Sy	SySayonara, 21	21	3	1.02
P1 21 3 Trad Start in an obvious grove with natural pro to the first BR. After the third bolt move right and climb a diagonal groove to chains.
	Jumping & Squeaking, 24	24	5	1.02
P1 24 5 The bulgur wall right of Sayonara with a shrub at half height. Over the bulges past 3BR to a ledge go straight up the steep wall above.
	Ripped Like Elvis, 26	26	5	0
P1 26 5 Start from the platform 3.0 mts above the ground at the anchor bolt as for SLE, follow the left-arching groove to its end then go up the vague groove. Dirty at the top. Bolted by Simon and given to John
SE	SEStaunch Like Elvis, 25	25	5	1.02
P1 25 5 Start from a platform 3.0 mts above the ground at an anchor bolt. Climb the left-arching groove, break right to sloping holds; then up the wall.
	Kilnsey, 20	20	4	0
P1 20 4 From the same start as RS, go left after the 3rd BR on to a steep wall and up through a bulge past another BR.
	Red Snapper, 19	19	3	0
P1 19 3 Trad Up a blunt arête five metres left on the wall, finish up the dog leg crack.
	Blind Mullet, 16	16		0
P1 16 Trad Where the track meets the wall, climb onto the shelf, then up the black groove finishing through the notch. Abseil off the bush to the left.
	Taller than Trees, 15	15		0
P1 15 Trad Opposite the stairway to the cave. The climb follows a crack in a left-hand facing corner.

Comments

Attribution

Facebook "Where are you Climbing Tonight? Christchurch" written by Tony Burnell.

UUID

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