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The Eiger Wall, (left hand side)

Type
Altitude
1550m

This was named after the Little Eiger since its left hand end is the corner with that crag. The Eiger Wall is the opposite side of the valley from the Organ Pipes.
The main problem with climbing this wall is the lack of good belay points at the top. You may have to go up to 20m to find a decent boulder to use, so allow for that in your rope management.

Image
Aspect
North West
Lat/lon
-39.294653,174.082747, NZ Topo Map
Approach

To descend one can go to the top of the Little Eiger and follow the descent route given for that crag. Alternatively follow the ridge up to the end of the wall. It is also possible to carefully back-climb the broken mossy section on the wall.
The following climbs are on the broken section of the wall immediately up-valley from the Little Eiger.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Jet-Stream Hitch-Hike, 19 19 17m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 17m
  • Trad

The thin crack around to the left from Arses Galore. Climb crack direct. Well protected.


2 2Arses Galore, 15 15 35m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 35m
  • Trad

Climb the off-width to the top of the column then the crack above. Nice climbing.


3 3X President, 20 20 25m
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • Trad

On left of Le Corner on Nose Block. Steep Crack. Friends #2 useful.


4 4Le Corner, 19 19 12m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 12m
  • Trad

The inviting right-facing corner with the horizontal break at half-height to the left of climb Ode to a Small … The grading is in the style of that adopted by the same first ascensionist at the crag Piarere; a Piarere 19 then may be anything from 18 to 22—who knows?


5 5Ode to a Small Green Lump of Putty, 14 14 12m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 12m
  • Trad

Follow the wide off-width crack right of Le Corner over a chock stone onto excellent belay above.


Comments
UUID
 
16dbc149-1cc0-44f0-adb6-8afd0d90e473