Organ Pipes, Snotgobbler Wall

Type

Altitude

1600m

Part of

This is 70m up from the last climb on the Organ Pipes, essentially on the same piece of rock when it gets steeper again. All climbs here are on excellent rock. The name of the wall deserves some explanation: Snotgobbler is a character in an excellent book called Fungus the Bogeyman. Fungus the Bogeyman is the name of a good climb in Hongis Valley.
The rock in this area, and the adjacent Organ Pipes is some of the best on the mountain.

Aspect

South

Lat/lon

-39.294188,174.081202, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BJ29 932 500

Approach

To descend from Snotgobbler Wall, scramble up for about 5m, then traverse left into a gully.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
1	1Daft Punt, 14	14	15m	0
P1 14 15m Trad The corner left of Left Behind. Follow crack and step right near the top.
2	2Left Behind, 14	14	15m	0
P1 14 15m Trad The left most deep groove. Exit left around overhang. This route derives its name from the forgetfulness of the second to provide transport up the mountain for the lead. Fortunately, after some cellular phone calls they were able to combine on the climb.
3	3Noise Control, 15	15	15m	0
P1 15 15m Trad The clean face between Left Behind and Diarrhoeic Golliwogs. After the horizontal break move right and up easy crack (going direct at the break is 19).
4	4Diarrhoeic Golliwogs, 14	14	25m	0
P1 14 25m Trad The left facing corner with a peg at half height. Exit right below the overhang.
5	5Mastitis Soup, 15	15	25m	0
P1 15 25m Trad Climb the crack on ﬁnger jams to good jugs over blocks at the top.
6	6Poms Unite, 15	15	20m	0
P1 15 20m Trad Climb the crack in the slight groove through the overhanging blocks.
7	7The Jerball’s Traverse of the Gluteus Maximus, 17	17	20m	0
P1 17 20m Trad Climb the arête using Poms Unite and Childishly Pointless for protection only. At three-quarters height cross into, and ﬁnish up Poms Unite.
8	8Childishly Pointless, 16	16	23m	1.02
P1 16 23m Trad Climb mainly on ﬁngers and tight hands. Ledges give good rests.
9	9Tales of Mystery and Imagination, 17	17	20m	3
P1 17 20m Trad Climb the deep left facing corner, direct over the two bulges. Beautiful jamming.
10	10Snotgobbler, 16	16	20m	3
P1 16 20m Trad The wide crack that splits the pillar. Good jam crack. A variation exists at two thirds height: follow cracks, moving left and onto the top.
11	11Grooving Together, 16	16	20m	1.02
P1 16 20m Trad Climb the arête using the cracks on either side.
12	12Speechless, 17	17	20m	0
P1 17 20m Trad Climb shallow V-groove and then the crack left at small overhang onto ledge. Then climb the crack up to and direct through the overhang.
	Nose Gully, WI1	WI1	0m	0
P1 Water Ice WI1 A good, short introduction to steep snow climbing early in the season. This gully fills with snow after heavy or repeated falls

Comments

UUID

d1cd2b43-e8f8-4f79-9c3e-8a0ed05b02de