Wall of Sirens | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Abseil in to just above the water line, build a trad belay and climb out.

Approach

Easiest access is to climb Park in the Walk or Benny’s Magical Koura Circus to the chain anchor. The first three routes are reached by abseiling off this anchor down to the small ledges above the water, taking great care not to get your ropes wet!
To access Femme Fatale and Sirens Call, walk along the bushy ledge for 20m and abseil off a rock or tree anchor.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Park in the Walk, 16	16	18m	1.02
P1 16 18m Trad At the very end of Hecklers Wall. Good gear and nice climbing up the corner crack system to the bolted anchor. From here you can access potential abseil points for routes further along the Wall of Sirens.
	Benny’s Magical Koura Circus, 18	18	18m	1.02
P1 18 18m Trad Aesthetic finger crack at the far end of the lower tier. Climb the ledges, after which thoughtful bridging leads into the finger crack and ample holds on the face. Provides access to the other Wall of Sirens routes.
RD	RDRain Dogs, 19	19	22m	2.01
P1 19 22m Trad From the small belay ledge climb the finger and hand crack through the overhang. Once on the ledge move left to finish on the anchors of Benny’s Magical Koura Circus. “Inside a broken clock. Splashing the wine, With all the Rain Dogs” -
	Rain Dogs Direct, 20	20	22m	2.01
P1 20 22m Trad As for Rain Dogs but from the ledge climb the finger crack direct up into the bush for an exciting finish. Belay off trees on the bushy ledge.
DG	DGDelusions of Grandure, 17	17	22m	0
P1 17 22m Trad From the belay climb the easy corner following the crack to the crux finish.
CI	CICirencester, 20	20	22m	1.02
Build a belay as for DG and climb the slight arete on the wall straight up veering right onto the top exit slab. P1 20 22m Trad
FF	FFFemme Fatale, 19	19	22m	1.02
Climb the continuous snaking crack from the waterline straight up, starting as a wide blocky fist crack and narrows to fingers with balancy lay-backing at two-thirds height (crux). P1 19 22m Trad
	Lakeside Sewing Machine, 19	19	22m	1.02
A pumpy start leads to easier climbing up the dihedral. Decent gear, a single rack of cams and a good selection of nuts is sufficient. Climb is located between Femme Fatale and Siren's Call. P1 19 22m Trad
SC	SCSiren's Call, 18	18	16m	1.02
Build a belay 6 metres above the waterline on a vegetated ledge. Climb the corner with two staggered overhangs with good holds, finish up the slab. Well protected. P1 18 16m Trad

Comments

This place appears in

Kawakawa Bay: a guide for rock climbers, 2019

Free download of this guide

UUID

d4428b58-5956-4a82-a3ff-0b68d702f49b