The Factory | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The Factory is 5-10 minutes up-river form the Knot Factory. Once you get through the band of seeping rock at the base, the climbing is steep and difficult on well featured rock.

Access is up a small stream that branches of the main river. The first three lines all start up a fixed line. Venus in Furs and Lexington Avenue start on separate pillars but both convene to 'the Warhol'.

There is a camp spot right at the base of the overhang with plenty of water from the stream. With the short approach, it is practical to walk in and out the same day, so camping out of the gorge is encouraged to reduce impact on the area.

Walktime

35-45mins

Aspect

East

Approach

After the river opens out, cross to the left bank as the river bends right and rapids start again. Climb over the large log on the left bank, and up the tributary stream. The Factory waits five minutes upstream.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
PEI	PEIThe Exploding Plastic Inevitable, 25	25	15m	5	1.02
The left most line straight up through the overlaps Begins from permawet area, so fixed line is required to gain start. P1 25 15m 5
WTM	WTMWelcome to the Machine, 26	26	20m	10	1.02
Traverse rightwards from the end of the fixed line then straighten up to join the tufa https://vimeo.com/22867173 P1 26 20m 10
ISA	ISAI Shot Andy Warhol, 27	27	15m	7	1.02
Starts as for previous routes but heads right for large hole in rock where projects also finish. P1 27 15m 7
UPG	UPGVenus In Furs, 33	33	20m		3
P1 33 20m Formerly known as the 'Up The Guts' project. Climbs straight up the middle of the steep wall until joining the final section of Lexington Avenue and finishing in the 'Warhol'. The initial section is a bit scrappy, but once on the wall proper there's quality sustained climbing at around grade 27, before a crux section kicks in. Equipped by James Morris and Zac Orme in 2011.
LEX	LEXLexington Avenue, 30	30	25m	10	3
Start on the hanging slab on the right of the crag to the ledge before embarking up the overhang, trending left towards the 'Warhol'. P1 30 25m 10 Equipped by James Morris and Zac Orme

Images

Comments

Attribution

James Morris

UUID

76ca1925-636e-4203-8f96-f935ea7efa3c