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The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise

Grade
18
Length
35m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Pitch 1, Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr Mar. 2012. Pitch 2 Gerard Tarr, Isaac Tracey Apr. 2012.
Located on
Lower Bluff
Topo ref
C

After Peach Teats if you use the knotted rope to scramble up to the left of
the buttress,
you’ll arrive underneath a huge, featured overhang.
A spiritual journey.

  • P1
  • 13
  • 35m
  • Trad

Excellent chimney with hand crack starting high up in the gully left of Jugzilla, on the right hand wall. Traverse to the right out of the chimney around the corner and on to the Jugzilla belay ledge. Build a trad anchor three meters left of the Jugzilla bolted anchors. (Double up on size 3)

  • P2
  • 18
  • Trad

meter up to follow a seam diagonally right for five meters, then mantle a spike and head up through some cool featured rock. Great moves, exposed, but well protected.

Comments
UUID
 
08c0b8eb-9840-48e9-9c9c-486524ab0506