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The Waterfall Area

CLOSED: Closed until further notice. Please do not climb here.
Updated 6 November 2024, by jonathan.

Please do not climb at Mangaokewa until further notice. Negotiations are under way with DOC and Iwi, climbing while the crag is closed will jeopardise any possible future access. Thank you.

Type
Sector
Part of
Mangaokewa

This section is located on the first tier. It starts just left of "The Head Wall" and
finishes just after the (not so impressive) waterfall.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 The Totara and the Waterfall, 18 18 7
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 7

or (16/A0)
This is the obvious line up the juggy, scooped out gully between (duh) the
totara tree and the waterfall at the left end of the waterfall wall. The first move
is a bit reachy and a bit slopey, so the first bolt is a staple to make aiding
through the opening moves (just hold onto the staple) easy. This is a great
access route to the second tier. A fixed line at the top of this climb leads to a
second set of rings, good for a top belay or belay someone on the second tier. 7
bolts (DBB)
 Crazy Head, 19 19 3
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 3

This fun line is located about 10m left of Rattlesnake Mountain. It cruises up
on cool horizontal seams, pockets and blobs and finishes just after a short
(pinkinsh) roof. Though you can probably clip the lower offs from the
undercling above the last bolt, it is much more rewarding to then throw for the
funky pink plate right of the draws. 3 bolts (LO)
 Fond Memories of Rattlesnake Mountain, 20 20 7
3
  • P1
  • 20
  • 7

At the time of sending, this line was Matt's "best" line he had ever bolted (by his
own account). Cruise up the juggy face to a GREAT rest ledge, sort out a few bouldery moves and then jump into the overhanging bulge (left of a crack) on
super fun holds. The stal on this route is mushy... so don't use it. 7 bolt (DBB).
 Rattlesnake Variant, 18 18 0m 3
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

An easier, shorter but drier version climbs Rattlesnake to the ledge and usiesthe belay bolts for "AG" to bail after the mantle.
 A "maid"ing Grace-, 18 18 3
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

A fun, short route just right of FMoRM. Climb the jugs and mantle the ledge...
that's it! Co-established by Abigail Allen (the "maid" who cleaned it) and Matt
Natti (bolts, etc.) 3 bolts (DBB)
Comments
UUID
 
4184d58a-f1fb-4aba-9aa2-9498affd6683