Please do not climb at Mangaokewa until further notice. Negotiations are under way with DOC and Iwi, climbing while the crag is closed will jeopardise any possible future access. Thank you.
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- The Parking Lot Wall
The Parking Lot Wall
Although this section is actually nowhere near the parking lot, it is the first
section that you see when you park up. The cliff is at the far left of the crag with
a lower and upper tier.
Access- Cross the bridge then take the track down river (see map). Stay on
the track until you are at the left hand end of the crag. From this point follow a
rough track, marked with yellow triangular markers, up to the base of the cliff.
Track left around the edge of the lower tier then traverse out on the ledge
between the upper and lower tiers. Routes are described from left to right.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Miss Josaphine, 21 | 21 | 6 | |||||
Upper Tier;
About 5 meters right of the left end of the PLW is a diagonally right trending line on good rock. 6 bolts (DBB) |
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Paid in Full, 25 | 25 | 7 | |||||
Climbs the left wall and corner left of Meadze Arete. Starting on the left wall climb through steep ground then cross into corner. Bridge up corner (crux ) then move left at top to belay. The mid section can seep water after prolong wet weather, but the majority of the climb and crux stays dry. (7 bolts & DBB) |
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Meadze Arete, 24 | 24 | 7 | |||||
Climb arête and both faces up to large ledge at half height (20ish). From the ledge traverse out left onto arête and climb arête through steep ground (crux), once at 6th bolt sustained climbing leads to belay. 7 bolts & DBB. Beware the top belay overhangs the lower ledge so clip into belay rope when lowering off. |
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Via "Brad"atta | |||||||
Access as per upper tier or take the track that follows leads the entire
This is simply an access up to a "hard to get to" section of the LPLW. It is a “via ferrata” (of sorts), using 12mm staples donated by Brad Heuson of Taupo. |