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1/ To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end.
2/ Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track rightwards.
3/ From the right hand end of the Millennium Wall follow a rough track for about 15m till you reach the next distinguishing feature of the Main Cliff, a large right facing arching corner.
4/ From the base of "Three Step to Heaven" (Arch Wall), the track drops down from the cliff before moving right and crossing a large slip. Scramble up the right hand side of the slip to the base.
5/ Down the rope just past the lines of Grit Pike Thin. Are the Galaxy Walls. The point the main access track meets the cliff is by “Hands Christian”, 10m left of this, and starting at the base of the fixed rope is the Lower Galaxy wall, and "Doing it at Dawn".
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Doing it at Dawn, 24 | 24 | 20m | 6 |
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The bolted line immediately left of the fixed rope. At half height take the left handline of bolts (Pro: Bolts) |
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| No Country for Old Men, 24 | 24 | 20m | 6 |
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Start as for Doing at Dawn but finish up the right hand line of bolts, (Pro: Bolts) |
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| Easy Lay, 22 | 22 | 20m | 6 |
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5m to the right. |
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| Hands Christian, 23 | 23 | 20m | 6 |
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A hard line to onsite. Climb the smooth slab and shallow corner. Move left onto ledge and up the arête above (Pro Bolts) |
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| Big Bird, 18 | 18 | 20m | 7 |
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Climb the low angle groove past a truck load of bolts. |
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| Project | 25m | 8 |
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Continue up the hill to upper level on the, "Upper Galaxy wall" |
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| Handsome Julio direct, 28 | 28 | 20m | 7 |
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Climb the face (Pro: Bolts) |
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| Handsome Julio, 24 | 24 | 20m | 7 |
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Use right arte. Down climb and clip 3rd bolt (Pro: Bolts) |
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| Baby Driver, 16 | 16 | 20m | 6 |
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The bolted up the arterline (Pro: Bolts) |
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| Star Gazer, 18 | 18 | 18m | 5 |
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Climb the left face and large over hanging book case corner past 2 bolts before gaining the ledge (crux). Mantel onto the ledge then continue up easy ground to the DBC belay. The first ascent was done without the 2nd bolt. Small friends or wires can be placed between the 3rd and 4th bolt if deemed necessary. (Pro. 5 bolts) |
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| Galaxy Grovel, 21 | 21 | 15m | 4 |
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Follows the right facing corner and “over vertical” arete 2m to the right of Star Gazer. The first crux is gaining the first shallow ledge and the second is moving onto the arete past the 3rd bolt. Has a pleasant top out. (Pro. 4 Bolts) |
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| Twinkle Twinkle, 14 | 14 | 20m | 6 |
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Start at the fare right end of the crag and traverse left up a series of ledge to the belay of Galaxy Groval. The bolted up the arter line (Pro: Bolts) |
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| TE6A, 20 | 20 | 20m | 5 |
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At the fare right hand end of the crag sharing the first bolt of Twinkle Twinkle. Climb the steep face move right at last bolt, dynamic move to the belay. (Pro: 5 Bolts) |
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