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- Chunderosa Buttress
Chunderosa Buttress
Most of the Sheridan Hills crag is now open again following slip damage. Hidden Cirque and Western Wall cliffs remain CLOSED until further notice. Many thanks to the landowners for making this possible.
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Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stolen Moments, 20 | 20 | 20m | 9 |
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On the buttress of rock 30m to the left of Chunderosa Buttress. |
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| Chicken, 20 | 20 | 6m | 1 |
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Up the hill behind Chunderosa Buttress. A boulder problem that is hard to walk by on a small boulder opposite Waiting for Dave. Has 1 |
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| Waiting For Dave, 17 | 17 | 8m | 2 |
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Starts climbing from the top of a large spike up past 2 naked bolts. Good finishing moves. |
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| Horus, 15 | 15 | 20m | 8 |
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The first route on the far left-hand end of Chunderosa Buttress. Climb the corner to the left of the big cave (wires for protection). Go left under the roof and cross over the arete, then up the wall. It's possible to avoid the natural pro section by starting around to the left and just climbing the wall. Finish up the headwall to the right of the last bolt. DBC belay. |
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| Arms Control, 24 | 24 | 20m | 9 |
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A seriously overhanging route, with an even steeper crux section. Climb through the roof at the highest point (crux) then straight up to a TBC belay. |
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| Ball ‘N Chain, 20 | 20 | 20m | 10 |
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Simply superb. Climb the narrow pillar then veer left to the ledges, finishing straight up |
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| Cry Wolf, 23 | 23 | 25m | 9 |
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Excellent technical climbing on pockets to the DBC belay. A crack continues above this belay, take small friends and a brush if you want to do this section. |
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| Canard, 18 | 18 | 25m | 8 |
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Amazing that such a steep climb goes at grade 18, but the grade is bona fide, 8 bolts that pop |
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| Galapagos, 20 | 20 | 18m | 7 |
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A stunning line when seen from edge on, this overhanging wall just cleaves the sky. Climb |
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| Hebe, 17 | 17 | 30m | 15 |
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A long, easy arete - just the type of climbing Dave loves. Now rebolted with 15 bolts. DBC belay. Watch the abseil back down as the route is over the 25m long. |
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| School Bus Route, 19 | 19 | 35m | 14 |
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Climb up past 8 bolts to the sloping ledge at 25m. Finish up the crack as for Hebe, DBC belay |
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| Hotter Than a Very Hot Thing, 21 | 21 | 30m | 14 |
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10m left of Hannah Louise. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up above a ledge. A fine climb for |
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| Aurum, 18 | 18 | 25m | 14 |
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Starts up the yellow lichen staying out on the arete. The crux is just above the 6th bolt, which it |
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| Carpe Diem, 17 | 17 | 30m | 9 |
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The first three to four metres of climbing is on soft rock but the rest is solid. DBC belay. Watch your rope length on the descent. |
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| Hannah Louise, 18 | 18 | 30m | 8 |
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The long narrow groove on the east side of Chunderosa Buttress. It's possible but not necessary to place some mid sized wires for extra protection near the top. There is a DBC belay on the lip that makes the descent easier – but you should still do the full finish and pull over onto the summit. Watch your rope length on the descent. |
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| Curly Top, 20 | 20 | 25m | 9 |
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Starts up the grove right of Hannah Louise. Skirt the cave on the LHS to the roof. Climb directly |
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| Burning Rain, 16 | 16 | 18m | 4 |
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Once just another abandoned project: Ross McGarva partly cleaned and bolted this line before departing for Christchurch. Three guesses who finished it off... DBC belay at the ledge. |
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| East Weesy, 15 | 15 | 12m | 3 |
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What it says on the tin. DBC belay. |
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