Wall of the Evening Light

Type

Sector

Part of

The Remarkables

Facing west underneath the viewing platform at the top of Shadow Basin.

Approach

Downclimb gully directly below saddle above shadow basin, or rappel face.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Afterglow, WI4,M4	WI4,M4	0m		0
3 pitches. P1 Water Ice WI4 Mixed M4
	Charmer, WI2,M3	WI2,M3	0m		0
3 pitches. P1 Water Ice WI2 Mixed M3
	Pandora's Box		0m		0
P1 a layback and easy open-book corner
	Arago Spot, M4	M4	50m		0
A nice corner, immediately left of once. P1 Mixed M4 50m Trad
	Once, 23,M7	23,M7	12m		2.01
P1 23 Mixed M7 12m Curving crack. Four un necessary bolts lead to a single bolt belay and fixed carabiner. The crack protects well with offset and regular nuts, 2 x .5, 1 x 2, 1 x 3 camalot. Makes an excellent all natural protection route. Very enjoyable dry tooling or summer rock climb. The anchor could use a second bolt, and the bolts in the crack dont need to be there. Excellent natural protection.See pic below for wires used.
	Straight Outta Chemo, M7	M7	40m	1	3
Access by rappeling down Vertiginous to the lower snow field. Head north to pitch 1 P1 Mixed M7 Trad P2 Mixed M4 15m Trad Pitch 1: Head up the vegetated/offwidth corner before trending slightly rightward, mantling the small block and up the rock slab. Below in the crack below the chockstone. P3 Mixed M5 25m 1 Trad Pitch 2: Climb the crack with the chockstone before cutting right, clipping a single bolt before heading upwards to the base of pitch 1 of Vertiginous. Belay at the base of the crack. P4 Mixed M7 Pitch 3: Climb up pitch 1 of Vertiginous. Long moves between good hooks on strenuous feet up the crack and through a small overlap. To belay either use the existing trad anchor at the base of pitch 2 of Vertiginous, which has fallen down or cut right across the small foot ledge to belay on the double chain anchor.
	B12, 19	19	30m		0
P1 19 30m Trad corner
	Dying Light, 19	19	50m	11	1.02
P1 19 50m 11 From the access ledge rappel for 45 metres from a backed-up ring to reach a small legde on the lip of a huge overhang. Climb up and left to an horizontal break then up and traverse back right for the last 10 metres to access ledge. A rack of wires and cams are necessary.
	Push Play, 23	23	25m	8	0
P1 23 25m 8 23/24 bolted sport climb near the right hand end of the upper tier.
	Stease, M6	M6	155m		0
The right leaning diagonal crack to right of major chimney on face. A mixture of style and ease would be desired to overcome the full on first pitch, neither of which was shown on the FA, with a mixture of whimpering, digging, grovelling, whippers, power screams and eventual sending. Knees were used on several occasions. P1 Mixed M6 30m Trad To the right of the major chimney in the face, initially follow a low angle ramp diagonally right, before stepping with difficulty into a chossy offwidth, improving into a right leaning double crack system. Crux is a roof at the top with good gear. P2 Mixed M3 40m Trad Follow the chimney, followed by some ice and a turfy corner. P3 Mixed M4 45m Trad A direct line. Follow a low angle left leaning corner, followed by a series of steep steps with good gear when needed. P4 Mixed M4 40m A couple of steep steps.

Comments

UUID

2f2a82c3-d497-4171-be6b-ee21aa520415