Hold On to Your Face Wall

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This wall is on the right of the gully which leads to the top of Main Cliff. The wall holds the highest concentration of hard routes at Froggatt and it is a safe bet you’ll find some Auckland hotshots lurking around here at the weekend.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1E-Grade Get a Real Grading System, 15	15	10m	4	0
P1 15 10m 4 Done by some visiting pommy climbers. Climb the slab just less then vertical.
2	2Shane In the Red Balloon, 18	18	15m	4	0
P1 18 15m 4 Steep slab. A tricky move to begin with, followed by pleasant climbing
3	3Direct Action, 25	25	15m	4	0
P1 25 15m 4 Climb the face to the steep slab. A hard undercling followed by some difficult moves leads to easier climbing higher up.
4	4Vroom Vroom Mentality, 26	26	15m	4	1.02
P1 26 15m 4 A very difficult move near the base is followed by more technical climbing. Another difficult section through the small overhang then straight up to the DRB belay.
5	5Going Ballistic, 27	27	20m	4	0
P1 27 20m 4 Climb straight up the steep face just left of the corner crack.
6	6Hungover, 20	20	15m		1.02
Climb the steep left-facing corner and crack by back and foot. The crux is staying close enough to the crack to place gear (mid-size CDs and wires). P1 20 15m Trad
7	7The Lights Are On But Nobody’s Home, 27	27	20m	5	0
P1 27 20m 5 Climb the face right of Hungover. Even though well within reach don’t use the crack or opposing wall. A classic case of a contrived sports route pissing all over a natural line.
8	8Maddog Wine, 29	29	17m	5	0
This, the original project line, now shares a start with the next two routes. Once on the ledge trend slightly left up the steep all to the anchor. The hardest of the explored variations. Some say it’s 30. P1 29 17m 5
9	9Built to Last, 29	29	20m	6	0
P1 29 20m 6 Climb the overhanging wall on very small holds to the sloping ledge at half height. From here the route joins the line of Double Leaning Jowler climbing directly up the headwall above.
10	10Facial Reconstruction, 28	28	17m	5	0
The third of the three routes from the glued-up start. This is the easiest of the three but was first done 12 years after Built To Last, suggesting that it has more value as a mileage link-up than a quality line in itself. From the ledge, pop around the arete and finish up the Hold Onto Your Face finish. P1 28 17m 5
11	11Double Leaning Jowler, 28	28	20m	7	1.02
P1 28 20m 7 Start up the curving crack then traverse out left after the 4th bolt and climb the steep headwall just left of the arete.
12	12Hold on to Your Face, 26	26	20m	6	2.01
P1 26 20m 6 Layback up the curving crack then traverse left at the top onto the face. Continue up and left, climbing the face just right of the arete.
13	13Lanky, 25	25	15m	6	0
P1 25 15m 6 Starts as for Hold on to Your Face, but at the third bolt climb straight up the face.
14	14Higher Animals, 20	20	15m	6	0
P1 20 15m 6 Layback up the curving crack then mantel onto the ledge above (crux). Continue straight up the headwall above keeping just left of the arete.
	Jim Bulger, 20	20	15m	4	0
3m left of the crack P1 20 15m 4 Bridge up the groove then climb the arete above.
	Down & Out, 20	20	15m	5	0
P1 20 15m 5 Climb to the first bolt of Jim Bulger, then step right. Continue to move right especially at the last bolt.
	A Blast From The Past, 16	16	15m		0
10 m to the right is a large left facing corner, with a couple of trad climbs. The large crack system on the left wall. P1 16 15m Trad Bridge up the wide crack then “back and foot” the rest, (DBC belay, Pro: LCD, CD, Hex & slings)
	Reminiscing, 23	23	10m		0
P1 23 10m Trad Starts in the corner. The start moves are the crux and are before you can place any gear. Once you have reached the crack, the climbing eases off. (DRB belay, Pro: CD, W)
	Guba, 22	22	10m	4	0
P1 22 10m 4 The short face just to the right of Reminiscing. Starts in the corner then veers right then up the face above.

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