The Slabs | ClimbNZ

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A pleasant area: sunny, sheltered from southerlies and often escaping the worst of the northerlies. Despite being less than vertical, these slabs are not all easy – the holds are small to compensate for the lack of angle. These climbs are tests of delicate footwork and mental control. Some bolts on top make it possible to top-rope these routes, but they are not beginners’ climbs.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
1	1Pedestal, VE	VE	0
P1 Hueco VE Climb from the pedestal. Nice moves but be careful of the landing.
2	2Left Left, V0	V0	3
P1 Hueco V0 The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds materialise just as you need them. Top out straight up.
3	3Right Left, V0	V0	0
P1 Hueco V0 An easy start leads to thought-provoking moves through the ledge and bulge. Finish on the rib bordering the chimney. Unlike the left-hand route on this slab, people have fallen off this route and survived.
4	4Slab Chimney, V0	V0	0
P1 Hueco V0 This always seems to sucker people into thinking it is an easy climb. It is neither easy nor particularly pleasant. Most people get stuck at about half height and have a horrible grovel.
5	5Cripple, V1	V1	1.02
P1 Hueco V1 Scary and uncompromising. The overhanging face and blunt arete on the right side of the chimney. No bridging for the grade.
6	6Left Right, V0	V0	2.01
P1 Hueco V0 Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow.
7	7Right Right, V0	V0	2.01
P1 Hueco V0 Sustained climbing on thin edges.
8	8Slab Arete, V0	V0	1.02
P1 Hueco V0 A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure.
9	9Seaward Slab, VM	VM	1.02
P1 Hueco VM On the back (seaward) side of the boulder, climb the rib on the smooth-looking face. Beware slightly brittle rock.

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