Located above Livingston Bay, east of Evans Pass.
Routes may be longer than 25 metres! The 50m rope from the the rap anchors may not get you back to the ground. Approach from the top. Take an extra rope to rap in, and ascenders/prussicks to exit the top of the climbs to safe ground. The bottom of the crag is also steep, please exercise a bit of steep country sense.
Use same car park for Jane Fonda W/o Wall. Drive to Evans Pass on the Summit Road, and drive 3km towards Godley Head. Park in a layby directly above Taylor's Mistake.
Walk west along Crater Rim Walkway (towards Lyttleton).
Cross stile and contour west, to obvious hairpin bend.
At hairpin, walk straight off end of bend onto the spur and carry on to a large block.
Descend from block down the spur to a fence line, and top of gully ( with a broadleaf).
Traverse back east tending slightly downhill under a small rock buttress to a narrow grassy ledge.
At the ledge there should be some bolts to set up your rap rope & gear up.
A straight abseil will take you down a long corner, this climb is "Night Moves"
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CtE | Close to the Edge | 20 | 20m | 4 |
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| Fragile | 20 | 20m | 4 |
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| RD | Rain Dancer | 20 | 28m | 8 |
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| SS | Stanley Street | 20 | 25m | 5 |
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| Gas Guzzler | 20 | 25m | 6 |
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| NM | Night Moves | 18 | 25m | 6 |
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| RD | Rising Damp | 21 | 22m | 6 |
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| FLF | Full Length Feature | 18 | 30m | 9 |
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| Looser Cruiser | 17 | 30m | 10 |
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| Excursion | 19 | 20m | 5 |
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| BF | Bridging Over Flora | 17 | 30m | 5 |
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| TWS | Thin Wall Special | 20 | 20m | 5 |
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| Cn | Conundrum | 24 | 18m | 4 |
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| HM | Boyzone | 22 | 20m | 6 |
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| Easterly Breeze | 16 | 20m | 5 |
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| Bz | Hall Mark | 24 | 20m | 6 |
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| Prickly Cold | 23 | 20m | 6 |
Images
Went and checked the hangers they are both fine, the surface rust is more tarnishing, there is no pitting or flaking
Hi nogger77, you need to get amongst it and replace them
Hangers on the two rap bolts appear to be rusted through and through
This is a great little crag. We went on a week night and only climbed three or four routes each as the approach takes about 45min by the time you abseil to the base. I felt as though most climbs were over graded by a grade or two. My thoughts on grades - Rain Dancer ***19, Gas Guzler **18 (sustained, and slightly overhanging but big holds), Night Moves *16-17.
Nice crag in a cool spot. My suggestions on grades/stars etc:
Rain Dancer: *** 18-19 Good steady route
Stanley St: 19 Bit fragile and run out
Gas Guzzler: ** 20 Nice
Rising Damp: * 21
FLF: 17
BOF: * 16
TWS ** 20 Nice
BoyZone 22 Quite brittle holds, needs traffic
Easterly Breez Quite brittle holds, needs traffic
Fully bolted!
Hard to tell, is this fully bolted, or do some routes need gear?
A fantastic crag.