Natural pro requiredA nod to both Bill Mcleod, and the relationship status of one of the ascentionists. This route avoids the 'positive attitude' climbing required for the lower wall of Mandate (which appears rather green and runout), giving an enjoyable and rapid access to the terrace partway up Mt Brown, and the upper tier of Mandate and No More Words (both look excellent). The remainder if the route gives agreeable and somewhat exciting climbing to join Actions Speak Louder at the end of the neccessary difficulties (and optional walkoff).
Follow wall below Mandate up a grassy ramp/gut on the left to a buttress at the left side of the wall. Starting from a gully on the left, the route then trends right and up the clean face of the buttress - thin climbing on quality rock.
A direct start could easily be rap bolted from the first pitch (FA was lead bolted), extending the quality climbing by a pitch or so.
(The steep pillar beside the lower-wall chimney of Mandate also is striking and could form a fantastic route if bolted.)
Details (grade, pitches, length, number bolts) were not recorded at time and are poorly remembered, so your sense of adventure is preserved.
2-3 long pitches to the terrace (we think), past spaced bolts and gear. Scrambling leads to approx. 3 more pitches, mainly (all?) on gear. Descent is by scramble/walk off upvalley after crossing 'Actions' (or as for NMW / Mandate, if finishing by those routes).
Dave Brash and Steve Carr previously established several pitches of a new pitches into the scoop just right of the lower half of this route, although this wasn't completed to the terrace.
- P1
- 19
- 370m
- 10
- Trad
Mixed pro. Bring a decent rack. Gear to #3 was carried on FA but can't recall what was used. Nuts and smallish cams will see plenty of action. Start in the left-most possible gully, following a crack on the right wall for 10-ish meters before moving up and right (following the odd bolt). Finish in cracks around the right side of the crest. 2-3 pitches to terrace (crux 17?) and upper pitches of Mandate / No more Words. These anchors on this lower half of the wall are probably bolted ( upper wall possibly gear or bolt +gear anchors). Then either climb 'Mandate' or 'No More Words', OR walk left to several further pitches (climbing to at least 19/20, see photos) to eventually join the crest of 'Actions Speak Louder' at the top of the wall (where it turns to towers on a ridge). Either continue on over the upper towers of 'Actions....' or walk off upvalley / climbers left. An optional single pitch of exceptional climbing is an excellent way to round off the day: Near the top of the descent look down the boxy gully to your left to the single-pitch trad route 'Afterthought' on the right wall. Drop your pack, scramble carefully down and give it a crack!
