Place info

Mt Brown

(16 routes)

The central buttress on south face of Mt Brown contains excellent quality rock - best profile is from upper valley.

(L to R) Mandate, No More Words

  • 2168m

    Altitude

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2168m

The central buttress on south face of Mt Brown contains excellent quality rock - best profile is from upper valley.

(L to R) Mandate, No More Words

NZMS260: 
H37 726 027
Topo50: 
BY15 626 410
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
0
  Three and a half km up Freds Stream, climb the steepening tussock slopes to reach the alpine meadows, and plod to the summit. Scramble
1
0
  From the upper reaches of Bush Stream, H37, GR 716 022 plod up the scree slopes and scramble to the summit.

Andy Macfarlane, 1995

ASL
5
0
550m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

Route is to the left.

Central Buttress on South Face. Begins at a higher level than surrounding rock. Steep awkward strata, overhangs, and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. Second half of route follows prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent. Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention. 550m vertical, grades 15-19.

Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 1995. Direct mid-section, Bill McLeod, March 1996

M
20
0
One or more images in route detail.
 

Route is to the right.

Beginning on a small block climb clean face on left side of south east face, concave wall. Higher up tend left to gain grassy groove beneath great black corner and head straight up. On reaching terrace, head up ledges to gain headwall. Follow the arrow straight corner/crack system that runs on a slight diagonal the entire height of this wall. Rock is compact and solid, predominantly vertical, but can be damp in places. Requires a positive attitude. 450m high, grade 20.

Bill McLeod, Chris Warburton, January 1997

20
0
400m
Natural gear required
1
  The route ascends an obvious feature - The Rocket - on the right side of the bluff. Immaculate rock, few options, small gear protection, and the top three pitches of sustained grade 20 climbing. 400 m.

Bill McLeod, February 1995

WI4
0
  A two pitch alpine ice route. The name says it all.

Erin Hawke and Andy Haugh

WI4
0
  Jaws is on a wall split by a large rock. The rock that splits the flow looks like the bit between the jaws of ice. Snow gully to access the flow. A two pitch ice route to the true left of the rock. H37, GR 725024

Erin Hawke, Jim Spenser, Winter 2001

WI3
0
  True right of the rock. H37, GR 725024. (Two pitches? Grade 3? I'll call jono to confirm)

Jono Clarke, Kester Brown, Winter 2001

WI2
0
  Also in this region and a little further downstream true left is a small wet climb with a tussock top out.

Erin Hawke and Dave Williams

1
0
  Up Bush Stream until third creek on right, follow up that stream until it runs out and scramble to the top of ridge. Follow ridge keeping the four tarns on your right, to reach the saddle. Cut through the ridge at H37, GR 734 031, and veer to summit knob.

Noel Pullan, Diane Mellish, March 2002

WI4
0
55m
 

Mal Haskins, Dave Williams, Alex Cottle

WI4
0
45m
 

Mal Haskins, Brad Miller

WI4
0
50m
 

Mal Haskins, Paula Roberts, Rob Dunn

WI3
0
50m
 

Top Roped by Mal Haskins, Paula Roberts, Rob DunnFirst free ascent by Mal Haskins, Brad Miller

WI4
0
160m
 

Mal Haskins, Brad Miller

WI5
0
One or more images in route detail.
 

Climb the centre of the three lines immediately above and right of the triangle-shaped buttress at the lower right side of the south face of Mt Brown.

Jamie Vinton-Boot, Nick Hanafin, July 2011

This place appears in: 
Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: a guide for climbers
This site is a beta version.