This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley.
There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.
Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16
Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut, depending on how big your load is).
Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag.
Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Death of a Ladies Man | 13 | 12m | |||
2 | Arlo's Crack | 12 | 12m | |||
3 | Right on | 16 | 16m | |||
4 | Up To You | 21 | 10m | 4 | ||
5 | A Street | 13 | 8m | |||
6 | First we take Manhattan | 16 | 8m | |||
7 | Ledge in Time | 15 | 14m | 4 | ||
8 | Nuts and Bolt | 15 | 14m | 1 | ||
9 | Playtime | 15 | 16m | 4 | ||
10 | Broke again | 15 | 16m | 4 | ||
11 | Don't Go Home With Your Hard On | 18 | 18m | 5 | ||
12 | True Love Leaves No Traces | 17 | 18m | |||
13 | project | |||||
14 | Blue Telescope | 16 | 20m | 6 | ||
15 | Osteoarthritis | 18 | 20m | 7 | ||
16 | Keep Off The Grass | 16 | 20m | |||
17 | Fingerprints | 18 | 20m | 1 | ||
18 | Project No More The One The Boys Missed | 21 | 20m | |||
19 | You Want It Darker | 18 | 20m | |||
20 | It's Alright Ma ( I'm only bolting) | 17 | 20m | 7 | ||
21 | Don't Tell Mother | 20 | 20m | |||
22 | Iodine | 17 | 15m | |||
23 | Tukino Time | 15 | 15m | 4 |
Topos now up.
More pictures and topos to come.