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From 2314m, easy snow leads west to the top of a 20m rock step. From the col below, sidle then ascend snow slopes to the eastern (higher) summit. A second summit (10m lower) involves crossing a rock gap then ascending 40m of steep but firm rock. West off the lower summit involves a steep and exposed descent. This has been turned on the Aciphylla Creek side down a gut then across a sloping shelf before returning to the ridge. Beelzebub snow faces are then accessible, while further west there are towers on the ridge.
George H Thompson, Matt Fowlds, Pat Campbell, Keith Williamson, 1st Jan 1954.
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club