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Between the Madwater and the next stream downvalley, climb up through scrub heading south. Reach the scrubline at J35 313683, and head over a shoulder to the south into a basin at the 1400m contour. There are wonderful campsites in this basin and up on a terrace just above it to the west. Follow tussock and scree up to pt 1544m then climb the ridge, usually crossing at the 1900m contour to the rib overlooking the O'Neil Glacier for the final climb.
From the Lord Valley