Frew Bivouac to Whitcombe Pass

Type: 
Alpine
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
10mNo
 

Taking a good three days, this transalpine route traverses the Main Divide mostly along western slopes,
offering great views into the Mathias Valley and ranges west of the Whitcombe, including Mt Evans.
From Frew Bivouac head upstream to the south-west, sidling further west at 1460 metres onto the
ridge at J34 540901 / BV19 440 285. These basins across to Pt 1644 metres are gorgeous. The descent
into Harcourt Creek begins at J34 536897 / BV18 436 280 and appears steep, but isn’t too bad. Reach
Harcourt Creek at J34 533891 / BV18 433 275 and climb out south onto a flatter shoulder of the ridge off
Button Peak. Sidle south into the stream off Kea Pass.
Cross Kea Pass to the bench and valley east and south of Mt Split Open, and follow the Main
Divide up to Mt Young. A sidle on the eastern side is necessary at pinnacles, but a col beyond gives
easy access to the Divide again. Gravel slopes lead to the summit. Descend, sidling Whitcombe slopes
to a narrow gully that breaks a wall coming off Mt McWhirter at J34 505838 / BW18 405 222. Sidle to
another bluff line that can be descended at J34 501829 / BW18 401 213, and continue south. There are
some interesting rock crevasses at about J34 499826 / BW18 399 210. Another bluff line can be passed
at J34 498818 / BW18 397 202 leading into Bond Creek. Late in summer there is a sheltered gravel flat
with water in a basin at the glacier snout (J34 502812 / BW18 402 196) that would be a great campsite
in reasonable weather.
From this campsite, sidle at 1900 metres past Laws Peak, descending under the big rock ridge off
Mt Neave at 1640 metres, then head back up to cross Neave Creek at 1800 metres. In late summer,
much of the section from Laws Peak south has few redeeming features other than the views : there is
lots of gravel, inconvenient little climbs and descents, and little or no water.

Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
9692c9ae-8beb-4265-ba51-646efe498f52