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The climb is complex. It is usually gained via the Johannes Glacier, which is best reached from the lower Burton via a stream bed and couloir on the true left of the tip of the Johannes Glacier. A more intricate route begins on the upper North Ridge, crosses the prominent spur between the North and West Ridges into a couloir, and up the last 200m of the North Ridge.
North Ridge (upper)
D A Carty, Jack Cox, G Somerville, December 1936