|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Borland's flagship route. The first pitch involves 50m of varied and sustained quality crack and slab climbing on excellent rock. The recent addition of rings at the top of the Myriad crack allows for an excellent grade 17 crack climb (Escape from Myriad 17)
Amazing climbing on solid rock with varied styles. Originally climbed up the crack, then out to Roaring Forties, the FA team returned to continue up the continuing corner, ground up drill in hand. A single rack of cams is required. Climb fixed line to belay in a tree at the base of a wide crack. P1 : Belay off tree, atop stripped rock below obvious corner crack. Follow off-width crack to small rooflet, then into finger crack. Soak it up through stunning moves until crack angles out left. Here you can bail out left to rings for a stunning grad 17 pitch. Otherwise, continue up corner feature, bridging past bolts and a few gear placements. Move out R onto face and paste yourself to the rock through the delicate crux. Hang on till the rings. 22. P2 : Take the crack directly above. When the crack ends, load it up with gear and step L to a runnel and a bolt. Continue up to ledge and a trad anchor. 21. P3 : (First Dud) Moderate climbing past a few pitons to summit. 14.
Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 Ground Up