3 Pitches. Feature Faceoffers sustained, technical face climbing on awesome features up to the highest point of the wall. Now fully bolted, the route originally climbed a flake which has since fallen off. Subsequently there are two starts, the left is up an awkward crack, the right is one face move at grade 24. P1: 17. For a good warm up, lie back the wide crack past two bolts before gaining good feet out right at the third bolt. continue through nice features to a ring anchor below the roof flake. Otherwise start the face direct past three bolts and a 24 crux (FFA Troy Mattingly, Feb 2014). P2: Awesome, sustained face climbing! Make a long, delicate move past the first bolt to gain the roof flake. Crank on through past crimps and slopers, through continuously interesting and delicate climbing. Keep your cool to the belay at a tussocky ledge. 21. P3: Easier climbing past several bolts to cruxy move (18). A single bolt exists on top of the formation for belay. (18). Decent: Rap from the second pitch. Otherwise, to access the upper bluffs walk down to the north, then west across tussocky terrain to the westerly ridge. A good sport link is to continue up equilibrium. Follow the gully down to the east, climbers left to base.
|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
The obvious bolted face 100m from camp towards Eagle Rock.
Steve Skelton, Shana Payne, 2012.
3rd pitch, Steve Skelton, Keith Brown 2014.
Direct, Troy Mattingley, 2014