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Continue up the East Matukituki until near the foot of the waterfall, where a ridge leads North East directly to the summit. The scrub can be avoided by climbing up a small creek bed on the south side of the ridge, the crest of which then provides a straightforward route to the peak. Snow faces on the south side of the ridge allow some gaps and towers to be bypassed. The summit rocks are most easily climbed on the north side. The climb takes about seven hours from Ruth Flat to the summit.
The South West Ridge.