Learning to Lead

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
The double bolt belay was installed by Jono Clarke by traversing in from the gully. He then cleaned all the loose rock off pitch one and left the route for someone else to claim. During the 2015 Ice and Mixed Festival Daniel Joll told us to climb the first pitch for the learning to lead clinic, and I fell off at the crux before getting up on the second try. We went back a few days later to climb both pitches. Dan reckons the protection is good, but as a novice trad-climber, I didn't find many good placements for pro.
Reference: 
8
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M320mYes
 

The right most crack and corner on the first buttress. Climb the corner on good protection to a double bolt belay.

2M325mYes
 

From the double bolt belay head up via a right facing corner to the top of the buttress. Belay from the ridge

Grade: 
M3, M3
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
45m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Jin Cong, Gabriela Scheufele, August 2015
Route Image: 
UUID: 
645e0f1f-78be-455d-9821-2fc793071d1c

Comments

A sandbag at M3 and with a name like 'learning to lead.' At least without the snow-ramp, traversing into the crack has potential for an poorly protected grounder, and there is a sketchy run out to the second placement too. Not for throwing newbie leaders on!