|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress.
Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor.
From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes.
Los Indignados Direct
Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the buttress. Headwall is split by thin crack taking picks and small gear. Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to gain anchors.
M5, M7, M5
Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune 2012. escaping right before reaching the anchor M7
Daniel JOll, Steve Fortune 2016 direct to the double bolt belay M7+ - M8?