Pull Me a Pilsner, direct start and extended finish, 5 pitches

The direct start is between Fat Slut Crack and the DB Eh buttress. A good
alternative if you're not keen to thrash and dangle on the direct start, is
the original start. It goes up the access route to the left of Altered States
until level with the snow ledge at the bottom of pitch 3. There is a rock
slab pitch M4? to be traversed, thin scratchy dry tooling but well protected
with wires. (however by doing the original start you miss two of the best
pitches on the route)
Pitch 1 (20m) - a steep icy corner , M6+, all on natural pro. Pull over the
lip onto a small shelf on the right, then up a few more icy meters to a bolt
belay on a blocky stance. Stop here to avoid rope drag that would occur if
you try to combine pitches 1 and 2, and so you can hear your climbing
partner. If pitch 1 has a large hanging dagger in the middle you may need to
climb up and clean off the dagger which will make the grade feel a bit
harder!
Pitch 2 (20m) , M4- Vertical corner and small bulge that is turned on the
left, rock pro and ice screws if fat. Gain the snowy terrace and bolt belay
at base of next left facing corner/crack on right wall.
Pitch 3(35m), M5 WI4- Climb tricky corner/crack to gain turf and hopefully
ice, good rock pro. Once the turf is reached there are bolts on the right
wall, which makes it possible/sane to climb this pitch in thin, dry or warm
conditions.The ice chandelier gets seriously sun baked and rotten, but
utilising the bolts it has been climbed in these conditions with full sun on
the ice. The first ascentionists feel it is reasonably safe, however it would
be scary as hell if it did collapse.
Pitch 4 (20m) M3 - Easy turf corner up the slab, trending slightly left. Can
link with pitch 5 for 55m pitch, or stop at intermediate belay below chimney.
Pitch 5 (20m) M5 - Chimney / corner to hanging ice, if dry/thin finish up
left wall onto arete, then up and right to bolt anchor. if really fat
conditions the V groove with icicle might be a better option. be careful
where your rope runs over the sharp edge when rapping off this anchor.
Most pitches will feel easier with more, rather than less ice.
Despite there being bolts a full rock rack. Double cams from purple .5
camalot - 3 camalot, singles 00 - .4 plus one number 4. , 10 quick draws
extenders are useful, and 3 short ice screws would be advisable. single set
of nuts - #8 including some small ones. its mostly small and the occasional
medium sized wire.
Descent. Can top out to summit of Double cone on easier ground, or abseil
route on bolt anchors. - You can descend the route with one 60m rope. All
raps 30m or less. The pilsner pitch rap is a rope stretcher so keep knots in
for that one!. All raps are on double bolt belays.