"On the right hand edge of the south face, an obvious gully starts from the valley floor and snakes 500 metres up moderately angled terrain, with the odd steeper section, finishing at a spur that leads to the east ridge of John Thomas Peak. The route is sufficiently clear of the hanging glacier to be safe. The receeding and active hanging glacier makes access to the 1983 first ascent line of this face by Smoothy and Thomson a tricky affair to do without considerable risk."
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Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, September 2006