Place info

Southern Wall

(4 routes)

This was the most recently developed area at Long Beach.

For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. Once while hopefully examining the wall and commenting on its potential a climber watched horrified as a large chunk of loose rock broke off high on the cliff and plummeted down the face. However, eventually the cliff was rappelled down from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999. Development began again in earnest in 2017 once a via ferrata was established, opening up some phenominal routes on great rock with excellent exposure.

  • 5 min

    Walk in

  • 15m

    Altitude

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
15m

This was the most recently developed area at Long Beach.

For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. Once while hopefully examining the wall and commenting on its potential a climber watched horrified as a large chunk of loose rock broke off high on the cliff and plummeted down the face. However, eventually the cliff was rappelled down from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999. Development began again in earnest in 2017 once a via ferrata was established, opening up some phenominal routes on great rock with excellent exposure.

Access: 

The best way to the base of the routes is by a rough track beginning from the left hand side of Dragon's Lair and zig-zagging up and leftwards just below the cliff line. Eventually this track reaches the rock face where a via ferrata provides access to the left-most routes on the Manhattan Wall.

Walk time: 
5 min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
WS
25 ,18
3
26m
14X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
3
 

Can be climbed in two pitches. There is a ring belay on a spacious ledge a short distance below the top. Grade 18 slab climbing to the upper ring belay.

  1. Up the via ferrata then traverse leftwards until reaching the chain. Pull along this to the second short chain to the ledge. Technical and powerful face climbing to a spacious ledge. Some back cleaning is possible to reduce rope drag.
  2. Delicate slab climbing to the upper ring belay at the very top of the wall.

2018. FFA Steve Carr, Dave Brash

21
1.02
20m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  From the belay chain move L and up the small overhanging face (crux) to LH arete then up and L again to the chain anchor on the yellow coloured rock. Unclipping the first bolt (after clipping the second with a long draw) may be helpful to reduce rope drag.

Mike Simpson, 1999.

27
0
18m
Natural gear required
  Project 18m 27ish Bolted line L of the belay directly up to the anchor chain. Medium wire before the first bolt.
25
0
18m
  The line of bolts directly above the belay. Moving left at the top to the chain anchor. Fairly easy climbing with one hard move.

Mike Simpson, 2000.

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