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'The best climb I’ve done in NZ’ – Roger from Sweden. Never too hard, seldom too easy, this classic simmers from start to finish – if you climb nothing else at Coalition Crag, climb this. Begin up the thin black slab on tiny edges on progressively solid rock. Follow pocks to the overlap, then sensationally traverse L on the golden upper slab. Up the crack, then step R above the final overlap and up to the DBB under the roof. Retrobolted in 2023, natural pro is now optional. Take a few medium/large wires and CD’s to #2. An inferior variant start on yellow lichenous rock 2m L (7a) was bolted to provide an alternative when water seepage makes the normal start unclimbable.
Steve Carr, 1999.