Begin from snowfield near the centre of the south face, angling rightward. Cross a minor snow shute, and climb past the TV slab. Continue up the narrowing ramp to reach the summit ridge. 13 pitches of climbing up to grade 13, but little protection available. Descent by abseil off the waka taua, then over the low summit and down the east ridge.
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Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 2002